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Choke should close when cold, open when warm. The choke valve is driven by a spring in the round black plastic housing on the right side. Rotating the black housing winds up or down on the spring preload. There should be just enough spring to barely close the choke when cold, then as it warms up the spring unwinds and lets the choke open. The adjustment may be difficult, the black housing is clamped by 3 screws which became pop rivets when GM decided people shouldn't adjust them... You may have to drill out the rivets.

Carb rebuilds are hit and miss. It's been such a long time since QuadraJets were common that many of the old carb gurus aren't in business anymore.

Search this site for Oscar Heritz, a guy in Benton Harbor is supposed to be still around.

I was going to send my carb to him but I went with the fuel injection mod. I still have the carb, it was running a bit rich at idle but otherwise OK. You can have it if you want it...

Hopefully you have a gummy/sticky valve lifter which will clear up. After an oil change and a little running it may quiet down.

Good luck as usual!

Changing the oil may free up a sticky lifter. Also, if you have a PCV valve, it can clatter loudly (which means it's working).

Its really important for the carb to run that coach regularly. 100 miles a month in any weather will do. If you do that, you maintain the carb at the same time. Also, pump the gas pedal to the floor and back three four times every time you start it to loosen up the linkages.

I worked with the line to put in in-line fuel filter. You are good to go, Larry. Take it for a ride to Detroit and back! Then if it is still sticking or making noise, let a pro listen to it. If all else fails, chris's carb shop main street Dayton can do it.

quote:

Originally posted by Gordon Starr:
Its really important for the carb to run that coach regularly. 100 miles a month in any weather will do. If you do that, you maintain the carb at the same time. Also, pump the gas pedal to the floor and back three four times every time you start it to loosen up the linkages.

I agree as to exercising the engine on a regular basis. That is crucial with the Onan Microlite genset such as I have under my Class B. Hardly anything made lately has float bowl. Things that do have a place for modern ethanol to form varnish. Not good. got to keep the stuff in those float bowls exchanged frequently.

Pumping the pedal thrice squirts a lot of unnecessary raw fuel into the intake manifold. Flooring the throttle once trips the choke and makes sure the linkage is free.

Having a 2000rpm fast idle for a little while does not seem so bad. seems much more of a nuisance to me if idle isn't fast enough to keep the engine running unless you dance with the go pedal.

Once the engine evens out a little bit, rev it up till it roars then let it die back a couple times. Your carb will love it! If you wait till it completely lowers the idle to normal, the engine is completely warmed up. That carb just got worked over by someone who knew what they were doing. The whole engine did actually. Very few 454 run that nice, even when they were new, they didn't run that sweet. You shouldn't need to mess with any of that for now. Try it out! The brakes need exercise too. G.

quote:

Originally posted by Larry kiteboardman:
wife is going to kick me and the Barth out LOL.

Like fast idle, sometimes that ain't all bad

For the sticking lifter (if that's what it is)

1. Sometimes a can of engine cleaner in the oil can help. The ones that recommend an oil change afterward are the strongest.

2. Remove one valve cover and idle the engine while you press down on each rocker arm with a hammer handle. When the ticking stops you have found the sticky lifter. Using a squeeze or squirt bottle to trickle a little Carb Aid or other thin liquid carb cleaner down the pushrod can free up a stuck lifter.

quote:

Originally posted by Larry kiteboardman:
The engine seems to run fine and doesn't stall. It probably stays at 2000 rpm a little long but maybe that will be fixed when I go through the vacuum lines. Right now the coach is in the hospital getting a 900$ ball joint replacement and alignment. I will be trying to get it drivable to take a short trip by the weekend or my wife is going to kick me and the Barth out LOL.

Before getting your coach aligned read this info. There is so much info in this pdf.here

Try putting air to the passenger rear nipple on the bumper. The whole back end of the coach should lift up a few inches. G.

quote:

Originally posted by Larry kiteboardman:
Thanks I know about that document but at this point I don't have time to go through all that and don't even have the airbags working . If I can keep it one lane going down the road that will be good enough for know. I need to just get this thing moving for now.

So often I thought I didn't "have the time" to do it right the first time. Dad always said "If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right".