Go to... | Start A New Topic | Search | Notify | Tools | Reply To This Topic |
The Old Man and No Barth |
Generically, a "bell crank" is an "L" shaped mechanical device with 2 arms extending from a central pivot point. When force is applied to one arm, the device pivots, changing the direction of the force. Specifically, the after-market "Super Steer" bell cranks (I mistakenly called them "Steer Safe - another after-market improvement) replace a component in the P-30 steering system which wears quickly, & makes steering imprecise. Not cheap, but they make a world of difference in steering the P-30 chassis. | |||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
Roy is correct in the general sense. Many steering layouts use bellcranks, too. However, they get called different things. On the P30, for example, the left one is called a relay arm and the right one is called an idler arm. Neither wears out, and neither is replaced to improve handling. They are both solid forgings that have no center pivot, just a hole. There is an end fitting than can wear, rather like a tie rod end wears. If you study the picture below, they fit Roy's description to a tee. They pivot on what is called support assemblies by Chevrolet. These are metal castings that bolt to the frame rail and contain a shaft with bushings. The bushings wear and excessive clearances develop, resulting in loose steering. . Henderson's sells a product they call SuperSteer® Bell Crank & Bell Crank Arm Steering Controls, which incorporate tapered roller bearings to prevent wear and slop. They are very good. Intrestingly, Hendersons sells a part they call a bell crank arm. It is a bell crank, pure and simple, and fits the description given by Roy. Chevy calls it a Relay Arm. So, if you go to Chevy and ask for a bell crank, you will get a blank stare. If you go to Henderson's, they will sell you what Chevy calls a support assembly. The Chevy drawing should help explain what you want. I have no doubt that other manufacturers use different terminology.
Need and want are two different things............... However, If you want it badly enough, it becomes a need. A lot of the decision to buy a Breakaway or Regency over a gasser is budgetary, with purchase price being a major consideration. After purchase price is considered, then your taste for quality and luxury enters in. This is an intangible, and no one can tell you anything. Then comes miles driven. The more you drive, the more sense a diesel makes. Not only for economy, but for the pleasure of driving. I believe Bill NY has posted some figures on the mileage considerations. I don't know if those figures are useful in today's market, though. Regardless of all the glowing descriptions of a properly set-up gasser's ride and handling, the good DPs are quieter, smoother, better-handling, and perhaps safer. In lesser brands, the gassers were built so cheaply that they wriggled and jiggled like Pete Seeger's spider, and you had to buy an upmarket diesel pusher just to get some quality and durability. A Barth gasser, while on a low end chassis, is well-built enough that you are still driving a long-lasting quality product. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
5/12 |
Well my F-53 now has new Koni's a henderson rear stabeliser and a safe-t-steer and a fresh alignment. It is much improved but still wanders. If I can get anywhere near NADA I can replace it with a breakaway or regency. Thanks for all your help Wanye | |||
|
5/12 |
I looked at a regency that had satins on the wall in the bedroom at a level below the window is fixable and did it come from he widow caulk or is this a major problem. Thanks Wayne | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata | Page 1 2 |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |