My brother in law gave me a cool car this weekend. It is a 1993 exployer which runs quite well and (get this) I think it has ever option known to man. All leather, 6 way seats with memory XM radio everything. But it has a little rust like any Minnesota car over a few years old unless it is a Japanese car. They don't seem to rust much.

I want to repair the severely rusted hitch. How do I do it. Is there special stuff I should use?? Educate me...

A badly rusted hitch should be replaced. The hitch should be removed and a new or non-rusted used one should replace it. Maybe some new steel bracing could be welded to the old unit, but without seeing such one just can't say. I would take it to a trailer hitch shop and sometimes these are within a welding shop for an expection.

As far as Japanese cars not rusting as much as American cars, well we have seen in our business that they have rusting problems too. Most rusting problems are due to the fact that moisture can not escape thus the rusting process begins. Too unprotected metal will rust no matter what country it came from. Metal that have been chemically or sand blasted to clean up will begin to rust in minutes. After the process it must be coated in some mannor.

Needless to say a badly rusted hitch may be unsafe, UNLESS IT IS MERELY SURFACE RUST, and that can be sanded or ground off, then painted with a high quality coating.

I am sure others will share their feelings as well. Maybe I will learn too....

Dale

[This message has been edited by Smith Brother (edited May 09, 2005).]

What's badly rusted is in trhe eye of the beholder. If you're talking about rough-looking, pitted welds that are covered with scale or slag that can be chipped off, you're probably looking at a poor welding job that could be a dangerous weak point, and should be examined by a pro.

If it is surface rust on the structural members, even with some pitting, it's probably a d. i. y. fix..

I've had success with 2 products on boats, cars & RVs. One is "Extend" rust treatment. It comes in bottles and spray cans. It has a chemical that converts the iron oxide to something else (probably iron phospate) and turns it black. It has a latex base that serves as a primer, after which it must be painted, as the black coating is not waterproof. It doesn't leave a very smooth surface, but that doesn't matter much on a hitch painted flat black. If you buy a spray can, plan to use it all, or throw it away. The sprayer clogs up.

The second product is "Hammerite" paint. Comes in several colors with several formulations. Not all colors give equal rust protection. I've had good succes with a silvery bumper paint. Read the labels.

Another product is "Ospho," a watery liquid (probably phosphoric acid) that also converts the rust, but it doesn't work well on vertical surfaces - too thin to stick.

I've used "Liquid Galvanize" to prevent rust on fresh steel in boat bilges, but, I've never tried it on rust.

I've heard good things about "Por 15," but it's pricey, & not likely to be found in your corner hardware, or parts house.

You'll find "Extend" & "Hammerite" in your local hardware. I prefer "Extend," though you have to paint it afterwards.

In any case, wire brush, or sand the heck out of it to get rid of as much surface rust as you can, & FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS.

[This message has been edited by olroy (edited May 09, 2005).]

Does the hitch bolt on or is it welded?

If it bolts on, soak the nuts with PB Blaster for a few days and take it off and look at it. A wire wheel on a drill will help you inspect it. Having it sandblasted is better. Depending on the size of you compressor, a small sandblaster could be a good purchase.

Also look at the frame where it attaches. Corrosion can get in there and wreak havoc.

If it is welded to the frame, take it to a welding/hitch shop, like Dale says.

Some of the evaluation will depend on what you will be towing, too.