quote:

I'm impressed with your tabla rasa approach, build from basic parts, adjust to fit, get it the way you want it.

I believe you are insinuating I have the Rube Goldberg syndrome.

Found an old post from when I replaced the rad on the Euro.

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...=390106932#426109932

DannyZ, I think the only way to get the rad out of a Glassnose is from underneath. Maybe remove the engine, was yours down flow or crossflow mine is down flow, SteveVW Regal is a crossflow. Did you replace with a brass unit.

$400 is a great price in Brass and not bad if aluminum. A rebuild today is $1000. I tried 2 places usually cheaper here in Iowa.

Yep, I couldn't see any way to get it out the top. Don't know about the flow and can't check, since the Euro is long gone. The $400 was for a "recore" at a local shop. It was still fine when I sold it 10 years or so later. The original problem was a top tank that sprang a new leak every time I plugged the old leak.

DannyZ was it installed with the wide side left to right or up and down. Cross flow is tanks on the left and right sides. Sounds like yours was like mine tanks top and bottom.

I do love this old nose, I just wish I could get it to be reliable, like you I suffer from vapor lock, maybe if I win the lottery I can get a throttle body fuel injection system.

Well I guess y'all are up to your nose ( Glassnose) in my rad change by now but:

Today I hooked up the dolly I bought from SteveVW and put the Miata on it, Not to bad to get all situated, however I can see why someone might prefer to have a toad 4 down. I do want to rig a safety chain ( car to dolly).

I went out on the road it is a bit over 80F ambient and my engine temp never got over 80C, when I came back into town it went up to maybe to 85C for like 5 minutes and cooled back down below 80C. Old rad ran 110C+.

I am not sure but I assume the old rad must have been clogged, I think I am going to have to put a thermostat back in the engine. I am sure it will run to cold in cool weather and it should warm up faster a good thing.

Happy me, the Miata fits on the dolly nicely and the Euro runs cool. Give me a Miller Lite. lol

Meh, you're just a trek thru 125 degree temps away from boiling over. I'll be over for the keys in a day or so. Once you get that thing sorted come work on my oil leaks.

Hey Benebob. How ya been? Did you get your fan clutch worked out? I wonder if this better temp in my engine helps with my oil consumption. Perhaps a drag race is in order. lol

Doing good, just getting ready for a run up to acadia. Clutch fan is in and working fine. Still leaking oil like you wouldn't believe but I can't figure out from wear. Guess the next oil change will be going with something thicker and not syth. Running 10w30 now. Guess I'll try some 20w-50 or maybe some gear oil. You might wanna try the same

Benebob, Rusty our resident oil expert says to run at least 10w40 or if you are cheap as in my case buy it in 5 or 6 quart size 15w40 Rotella is ok. I seem to burn the oil, no puddles or excessive oil under the coach. No synthetic oil though.
New valve oil seals but the case is still out if that really helped.
I tried craft beer it did no good at all..lmao!!

quote:

just getting ready for a run up to acadia.

Acadia park...or university??

Acadia park. Just got back. Ran fine aside from the blasted starter solenoid moving again and grounding a battery wire on my header again. Zip tied back to the engine block but still a horrible system. We had a tire destroy itself on the trip back on 95. It was a rear inner so I was able to drive to a tire shop (with a brewery across the street no less). Only other issue is a belt squeal sound above 2900 rpms with the fan clutch engaged. All the belts are nice and tight and it only happens when the fan is running at full speed so I tend to think I wasted money on the AC Delco clutch as the water pump seems just fine. 1800 miles and lots of oil. Gotta find someone willing to replace my rear main and pan gasket over the winter. Will drive it anywhere is someone here wants to tackle it.

The rear main seal can be replaced but it is a big job. When I pulled the pan to do mine, it had been done before and the crankshaft was too worn. I ended up replacing the crankshaft from below, that was really a BIG job.

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...1087061/m/5933940277

If I had known, I should probably have replaced the engine then, since I did so not long later. At least Mary Ray got a good engine out of the deal.

Steve, can one replace that rear seal without pulling the transmission??

Yes that was my intention. If you drop the pan, remove the oil pump, you can unbolt the main bearing cap. The early 454's like ours had a split rear seal. If you look at the 3rd photo in the thread I referenced above you can see the trans case and torque convertor still attached. Another one on page 2 shows the bearing shell and seal in the block. (The later ones, like my 454HO have a one piece seal. Have to pull trans to replace but they almost never leak)

You can rotate the top half out as you push a new one in. The rear bearing shells can be changed in a similar way. Unfortunately, when I did mine I found the bearing and seal had already been changed. Bearing was stamped .002 undersize (not OEM) and thrust faces were gone. The crank is supposed to have about .010 endplay, it was about 1/8 inch! No wonder it leaked oil!

Crank was shot, so I decided to change it. BIG job underneath.