In addition to the fuel economy and generator exercise, there are some more advantages to running roof air and genset:

The dash air puts a horsepower drain on the engine, stresses the fan belts, and puts a thermal load on both the radiator, oil and trans coolers. The condenser also restricts air flow to the radiator. And Freon 12 is a contributor to global warming and is extortionately expensive.

Bad hills in the California desert have signs saying to turn off air conditioners.

My 81 Euro had a belt just for the AC comp so rather than invest a ton in fixing it, I just removed the comp and put it in storage. On less belt and one less wheel spinning and it was pretty ineffective anyway compared to the roof unit. Another Barth plus is all the huge windows that open half way and really don't produce a bunch of wind at speed, yet provide a lot of fresh air when it's cool enough to forgo the AC altogether.

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Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28

I removed the air conditioner from our 86 Regal. The are just sitting around. If anyone is interested in them let me konw. I have the compressor and the condenser.

I still use the temperature gauge that came on the Barth. During my trip to Talladega my needle would sometimes go to the middle line or just beyond after running for about 2 hours at 65 - 70 mph. Is this normal? I will have the air intake ducts blowing towards the exhaust manifolds finished this week. On short trips needle only goes to about 1/4th. I did change the thermostat to a 165 degree before the trip.



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Ronnie
1985 28' P-30 454

"I did change the thermostat to a 165 degree before the trip."......

Periodically changing a thermostat just for the sake of change is probably a good idea....As long as we understand that it is not a "cure" for any overheating situations other than a stuck-shut thermostat (rare occurance)...Dropping the 'stat temp range for opening will only slightly delay the onset of overheating....water has to go through 160 degrees, 180 degrees, etc to reach overheat conditions.....

I'm with Billh on this.....I think much of the on-the-move heating problems can be solved rather easily....It's the oven baking environment of being parked after a good run that cooks wires, plugs, etc. A thermostatically controlled, or even timed-delayed, electric fan running over the engine after shut-down does wonders......

My factory gauge runs about 1/3 to 1/2 and the clutch fan kicks in just before 1/2. It howls pretty good and brings it down then shuts down until needed again. My wrench says this is good and everything is working right.Remember, I'm running in Fla in upper 80 to 90's. The biggest difference I see is oil pressure, from pegging at 60 upon startup to about 30 after a hundred miles or so. I'm using 10w30 Exxon but told to go with a straight 30 or 40. Anyone?

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Dan & Suzy Z
'81 Euro 28

For temps above 30 degrees, 30 weight is recommended by Chevrolet.

Bill H, do you have a part # on your GM mini-starter?

quote:

Originally posted by EddieChevalier:
Bill H, do you have a part # on your GM mini-starter?

Eddie, I am using a starter I had left over after I converted the 502 in my boat to a top mount starter. I don't know the number, but they seem to be interchangable as long as you stay with the same nose bolt pattern.
Flywheels/Flexplates with two different diameters are used on Chevrolet small-block V8 and big-block V8 engines. Large flywheels/flexplates are 14” in diameter, and have 168 teeth on the starter ring gear. Small diameter flywheels/flexplates are 12-3/4” in diameter and have 153 teeth on the starter ring gear. The difference in flywheel/flexplate diameters requires two distinct starter housings. Starter noses used with large diameter flywheels/flexplates have two offset bolt holes; starters for small flywheels/flexplates have two bolt holes which are parallel to the back of the block. Most Chevrolet blocks are drilled for both types of starters.

PAW has good prices, and there are usually several on E Bay.

Here some links to part numbers:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/perfpartsjsp/partlist.jsp?cat=9422§ion=pp

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Starters_And_Parts/

Ace Electric CM-9786 if you are near one of their outlets. They sell to rebuilders. That is where I buy all my odd electrical parts. Really good prices, but you gotta know what you want.

A Mean-Green starter is one alternative:

http://www.mean-green.com/products/starter.html

Lee, I'm partial to Delco due to parts availability. It could be hard to find a solenoid for a green meanie on a Sunday afternoon when you are broke down somewhere inconvenient.

When I retire, I won't have to worry about getting back to work on Monday, so a Sunday breakdown will just mean a liesurely dinner and a stroll before sunset.

Bill, you're absolutely right about staying on the reservation regarding parts & availability...non-standard add-ons can leave one high & dry, and always in the worst geographic or time-constraint situation.....

...'Course, $300 for a Mean Green starter means I expect them to fly-in any parts to wherever I'm broke down and replace it for me...maybe wash & wax the rig while I'm waiting......(Then again, maybe NOT....)

quote:
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Originally posted by Lee:

...'Course, $300 for a Mean Green starter means I expect them to fly-in any parts to wherever I'm broke down and replace it for me...maybe wash & wax the rig while I'm waiting......(Then again, maybe NOT....)
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UMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM...............did you maybe mistake this for the Prevost forum? I think they might do that.