I have one of these, really is giving me a huge voltage drop at high amp load, starter load.

If I hook the power directly to the battery starter runs great, but running it through this device it really has to labor hard getting going.

I took the thing apart cleaned all the contact surfaces, it is better but not as good as a direct connection.

Is there a better device?

quote:

Originally posted by Duane88:
I have one of these, really is giving me a huge voltage drop at high amp load, starter load.

If I hook the power directly to the battery starter runs great, but running it through this device it really has to labor hard getting going.

I took the thing apart cleaned all the contact surfaces, it is better but not as good as a direct connection.

Is there a better device?

I would eliminate or reduce as much wire and connections as you can in that primary starter wiring. A disconnect is probably not necessary but if used it should be a monster. Cole-Hersee makes some big rotary slider types.

http://colehersee.com.au/switc...plication=heavy-duty

I have one similar to this but don't have a starter load.
https://tinyurl.com/ybc5yhyk

Does anyone know what a barrtery is??

Sounds like the best advice is to take a lesson from Steve and Tim, I think I will leave my current disconnect PO installed, but connect it only to the 10 milliamp shut off draw from the chassis, to prevent battery drain. Then run the starter direct to the battery. I am not sure if there is any draw there when the engine is off, gonna check.

May not confuse a thief, but then it probably never did anyway.

DannyZ and I are the only ones that want a Glassnose anyway. I will know where to look if it ends up missing. lol

Thanks!!!

Sounds like a good idea. Straight run from battery to starter.

(BTW, you may still need a shutoff for that barrtery... but since you started the thread you can go back to your first post and correct it with edit/delete)

quote:

(BTW, you may still need a shutoff for that barrtery... but since you started the thread you can go back to your first post and correct it with edit/delete)

Well ya I could do that but then, the Barrtery police might come and get me!! Years from now someone will point my error out to their Grandchildren, while camping in a Barth. Get a big laugh..

I don't think anyone will be searching for the barrtery cut off switch unless they had to many craft beers. . . or I mean Light Lite beers.

These old machines can drive one nuts!

So I thought I had the starter voltage drop beat, alas I did not, went out for a 20 mile test drive got back in the drive way, shut it down, the starter would not turn it over. D.S. and H.

So another look. The ground cable was made from copper coated aluminum, it had been repaired on at least one occasion, and not very well. The wire was really corroded. It was connected to a copper mesh ground strap, it has steel ends, rusted where it connected to the engine and battery cable on the radiator.

I replaced both, with a 4 gage copper cable, I soldered all the connections. It spins the started better than it ever had in my past experience anyway. Test drive tomorrow, hope I am not kidding myself and it is at last the final fix. The hot cable to the starter had been replaced with a copper cable.

Duane, did you use a Bellevue washer on your connection to the starter? This is a spring loaded washer that maintain a good contact after starter gets hot.

Craig, no I did not use a Bellevue washer. it is such a pain to get in there when I change the starter I will use one.

So the test drive went well got back from the 20 miles, shut it down, instant good restart, however I let it set for a few minutes and tried it again, during this wait the engine had heated up to about 120C, it cranked considerably slower initially but did manage to restart. Let it run a few, cooled down, and it restarted fine. I might have to watch it during refueling time.

I wonder did Chevy use that cheap aluminum wire as a ground and hot line?

If it continues, change the starter to a race high torque one (https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-305-350-454-mini-starter-super-torque-series-3-hp-mt200.html). Route the positive cable along the firewall to the transmission hump and then down from the hump as close to the block as possible. Heat rises and the block will be the coolest of the objects. To the extent possible let the starter shield the cable from the header radiation and if necessary wrap the starter and cables with exhaust insulation tape. Use dielectric grease on the connections and the mounting bolts of the starter and the connections to the chassis. You might run an extra ground from the starter bolt to the same location as the woven ground strap between the engine and frame.

quote:

If it continues, change the starter to a race high torque one (https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-305-350-454-mini

I hope it holds up, I will probably be changing to a mini starter anyway and will follow your installation advice.

Did I do a bad thing changing the woven chassis to engine strap to a 4 gauge cable???

Not at all! Ground cables can be 1/2 the gauge of the primary so you can compute a single cable using the start rates of the battery, say 540 amps and check the ampacity. A copper #4 is rated at 230 amps so just use two connections to the block and you will be fine. Pay more attention to the cleanliness of the block and the chassis connections and use dielectric grease at each bolt or clamp.