need to replace drawer slides on onan genset.the unit is a onan 6.5 . is it an onan part or was it put on at barth? talked breifly to an onan dealer and he thought it might be added by barth. anyway, i need to know if they are still available or do i have to retro my own. i found a japanese co. that will fabricate any type of slides i need. dont know how much that would be.

patrick

1977 barth 30t

Hi Patrick, the guys who make our Kwikee steps also make the battery slides, check it out

http://www.kwikee.com/Atrays.html

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Look at these:

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offeri...id=1491&cookietest=1

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Another supplier, but with more lengths available:

http://www.outwaterhardware.com/catalog/indexes/INDEX-AZ.ASP

(click on 9301, under heavy duty drawer slides)

thanks guys, i think i found what i was looking for. well, spring is here and its time to get back to restoring the barth. sure doesnt feel like spring around here in the northeast. 40's today but snow tonite.
ive shoveled my roof so many times this past winter that i might let it melt off. nahhh'maybe not. this site has been a godsend, thanks again.

patrick
1977 barth 30T

Patrick, when you do it, please post what you used and results. I plan on doing same when I replace my Kohler Klanker with a Honda RV 6010.

Patrick,
I rebuilt my battery tray last spring and it has worked out very well.
I used Accuride 9308 slides with a built in lock (both in and out) that were rated for 500 pounds.
I rebuilt the original pan and installed them on it.
The vendors of trays would not supply either the size or weight that I required.

Picture of curbside battery tray slides

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89 Barth Regal 32
Runs like a Deere
New Hampshire


[This message has been edited by Jack (edited March 20, 2005).]

thanks jack,
i ordered the 18" #1903 500lb slides. original slides on mine are 19" but i think the 18" will do just fine.any info on how you installed them would be a huge help. originally they were welded in. do these also have to be welded? i have been forced to get a welder and learn how to weld in order to fix some of the framework that supports the skirt. i do have to do some repairs to the right side due to the ground being attached so close to it (i think). the left slide is in fair condition, the right slide had deteriorated to the point of where the bearings just fell out. any tips would be a big help. how did you remove the genset?i was thinking of making a dolly to remove it? seems like a heavy unit to try and remove by hand? also, my dillemma is that i need to use genset to power welder because it shorts out my shore supply but not genset.ill figure something out.again, thanks for the info.


patrick
1977 barth 30T

hi all,
i finished the rfab of my genset drawerslide. here is a simple breakdown of the process. step 1: get about 12 friends to assist with generator removal. (he he he) in my case i had extensive damage to frame (i think due to current from the ground connection) aftewr a lot of thought and some new metal i was able to install some new slides (accuride 9308) thanks to a sugestion from bill h. thanks bill! the original slides were spotwelded so you have to drill out the spotwelds to remove the old slides. i bolted new slides in rather than welding them in.i used 2x2" angle iron to attach new slides to the original genset metal pan.after all the figurin was done i got my 12 friends and we reinstalled the genset.
patrick,
1977 barth 30t

Where did you buy your slides? I'm about to do the same job. The inside head probably could use a good cleaning by now.

quote:

Accuride 9308 slides

So, are these heavy-duty enough? The continuous vehicular rating on these is 300#. How much do ya think a Kohler 7k genset weighs?

You should be able to call Kohler with the serial numbers from the genset and they can tell you for sure. We got an Onan 4.0 microquiet and two people can lift it.

quote:

Originally posted by jsloan:

quote:

Accuride 9308 slides

So, are these heavy-duty enough?

For a while. Ours is mounted very low, just behind the axle, and gets a lot of grit from dirt and gravel roads, which is a death sentance for ball bearings. So, if you install slides, try to protect them from grit. And use bolts with captive nuts so replacement is easy.

Some of this, of course, would depend on how much dirt and gravel road (and off-road) driving you do.

quote:

The continuous vehicular rating on these is 300#. How much do ya think a Kohler 7k genset weighs?

322 lbs for the 7CM21RV

The truth of the matter is, you will seldom need to slide it out. In ten years of ownership, I have had to slide ours out only once, to decarbonize the inside cylinder (precautionary). I will soon have to slide it out a little to replace the dropout relay, which is getting crabby. Depending on your installation and physical Plastic Man ability, you might not even need to slide it out to replace the relay. And, the relay might not fail.

And, if you are a member of the Barth Garden Hose Club, you will not need to slide it out for decarbonization.

The best set up is to let the genset tray sit on a strip of steel angle at each end. Four bolts can hold it in position. To do any work, I unbolt it and slide it out enough for access. If it needs to come out a little past the tip point, I bolt on an adjustable steel support. It is adjustable to allow for non-level work areas.

If I must remove it completely, I use a jackscrew drive motorcycle/snowmobile lift or a hydraulic lift table. I use a reversible drill to operate it. It is a one-man job, even for busted-up old bill.

quote:

The best set up is to let the genset tray sit on a strip of steel angle at each end. Four bolts can hold it in position. To do any work, I unbolt it and slide it out enough for access. If it needs to come out a little past the tip point, I bolt on an adjustable steel support. It is adjustable to allow for non-level work areas. If I must remove it, I use a worm drive motorcycle/snowmobile lift or a hydraulic lift table.

This certainly sounds like the cheapest solution, put a small helping of lithium grease on it and it should be easy enough to slide. Now...which one of my welder friends a) owes me or b) I won't mind owing them one

quote:

Originally posted by jsloan:

This certainly sounds like the cheapest solution, put a small helping of lithium grease on it and it should be easy enough to slide.

It is the cheapest and most reliable. I haven't seen your installation, but there is a possibility that you could just bolt the angles in, instead of welding.

My angle/pan interface is clean and dry with a light coat of Dri Slide. It attracts and holds less grit. When I slide the genset out, after unbolting, I lift it a quarter inch and blow out the grit and shoot a little more Dri Slide in the gap. On a level surface, it comes out easily. On a tilted surface, I use a threaded rod in a drill as a jackscrew to pull it out without back pain. I have only jury-rigged it, but the jackscrew extractor could be permanently installed, just to be nifty-swifty.

To gild the lily, a shim of HDPE in between would be pretty good, too. If you want to keep hole alignment, the shim would need to be glued or flush-riveted. PE can be a pain to glue, but the woodworking catalogs sell some for table saw rip fences that stick pretty well.

quote:

And, if you are a member of the Barth Garden Hose Club, you will not need to slide it out for decarbonization

OK, I need more info on this club...