Go to... | Start A New Topic | Search | Notify | Tools | Reply To This Topic |
10/08 |
I have an issue when I fill the Barth. Gasoline leaks profusely from underneath. I have tried to trace it down but I guess I'm gonna have to do surgery. Anyone else expeirence this? 1998 29' widebody 454 Chevy chassis | ||
|
3/22 |
Do a search on filler neck or gas filler and you should come up with a bunch of interesting reads. Is it just when you fill or if you fill full will it continue to leak until you are below a certain level? Dana & Lynn 1997 38ft Monarch front entry Spartan Mountain Master Chassis Cummins 8.3 325hp Allison MD-3060 6 speed 22.5 11R Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake 8000 watt Quiet Diesel Generator 9608-M0022-38MI-4C Christened Midnight 1972 22ft 72081169MC22C Christened Camp Barth | |||
|
10/08 |
Its every time I put gas in it (which went up 15 cents overnight here in Des Moines). So I figure I am leaving about 5 bucks in the driveway. I just had an AH HA moment. This just started after a blowout on an inner rear tank side. Maybe an alligator slapped something. 1998 29' widebody 454 Chevy chassis | |||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
Does it leak during the entire filling process, or just as it is almost full? If it leaks during the entire filling process, check the filler neck and associated hoses and clamps. If it leaks at the end, check hoses and clamps at the top of the tank or connected to same. It is a good idea to replace the hoses at the top of the tank, anyway, as a cracked hose can suck air and drive you crazy as it comes and goes.
Yup. I had a leak for years that only occurred during extreme top off. I stopped doing extreme top off, and the leak was just a coupla shot glasses. Finally, the fuel level sender needed some love, so I drained and dropped the tank. I not only found some died out hoses with cracks, but found some poor quality work, apparently done at installation time. The electric fuel pump was up there, too, and I moved it to a frame rail where it could be accessed for maintenance should the need arise. Mine was suspended on threaded rods. I shot the nuts with PB or Kroil whenever I was under there, so that when I did actually do the job, they would not be frozen. Same for waste water tanks. When removing the nuts, it is a good idea to hold the threaded rod steady with a Vise Grips so any breakage is down low so you can deal with it more easily. I put the gas tank back up with brass nuts after chasing the threaded rod with a die and applying anti seize. I also put a double nut just above the highest run of the OEM nut to give me a good gripping area for the next time. That way, if the rod did break, it would break at or below the double nut, leaving me enough rod remaining to use a coupling nut as a repair. It the rod broke off way up, things could be horrible. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |