I don't know about that old timer thing but I think I'm getting close.

After crawling around under the coach doing the engine job I cannot deny I'm old. Tired and sore, dropping stuff, craning to see through the bifocals. (Let's not even get started with the prostate!) I guess it's all relative... after all I can still DO these things!

As far as timing goes, use as much advance as she'll stand. The factory in those days was all about emissions and performance suffered. Retarded timing was typical. Factory calls for about 4-5 BTDC but I was running 12 BTDC (as recommended by Thorley) with no knocking. After my distributor swap I bumped some more... knocked around 14 or so and it is now at 13 BTDC.

Not to tease or anything but I've got several other projects lined up for you... minor locksmith work swapping Chicago locks, cylinders and rekeying... a 12V onboard air compressor system (gotta get them air horns going!)...a vacuum brake bleeding system made from a dehumidifier compressor...battery isolator relay to replace my diode splitter...the fun never stops!

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Originally posted by Tom & Loraine:
Am I an old timer if I used a timing light...

If you used a timing light that did not have a battery connection, you are probably and old-timer. You know, the kind that was so dim you either had to do it at night or drape a tarp over the hood to darken things. Extra points if the tarp got caught in the fan and pulled the hood prop stick so the hood fell on you.

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By the way I need to get the old timing light out and check the timing on my Barth. I want to see if it's set at factory specs, I think it's more advanced.

If it doesn't ping on a hot uphill, it's not too advanced.

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If you used a timing light that did not have a battery connection, you are probably and old-timer.

Haha I guess that makes me an old timer that's what I used, I think I need an upgrade.

My Barth has always run strong without any pinging, however it has developed a hitch in it's gitty up. Cuts out on acceleration, I've owned it for a year now and haven't done anything to the fuel or ignition system and I don't have a history of any maintenance. So I think it's time.

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Originally posted by Tom & Loraine:

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If you used a timing light that did not have a battery connection, you are probably and old-timer.

Haha I guess that makes me an old timer that's what I used, I think I need an upgrade.

Yeah, the new ones are nifty. I had my old style one on a stick so I could get it down close to the marks without getting my hand too close to the fan or belts or pulleys.

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My Barth .. has developed a hitch in it's gitty up. Cuts out on acceleration,

Doe it do it right away or later, when the engine is really warmed up?

Does it cut out if you drive with the gas cap removed?

A fuel pressure gauge would be nifty. Absent that, put the right amount of Red Line Fuel System Conditioner in the tank. Run the genset, as well, just to get its carb cleaned out. It helped mine. (Plus, the empty bottle makes a really nifty funnel) After that tank is done, replace the inline filter underneath and the one on the carb inlet to dispose of any crud the cleaner has loosened. Same for the genset filter.

Remove the distributor cap and wipe it really clean. If there is any red dust, blow the weights clean and give them a little oil spray. Get them as clean afterward as you can with a rag. That red dust is conductive.

The above should be part of the maintenance schedule

The coil can run OK cold but cut out when hot. Particularly non-Delco coils.

Of course, cutting out on acceleration is also a symptom of marginal plug wires or the electronic module in the distributor. Take a look at the flexible wire inside the distributor. Make sure the push-on connections are tight and the wire is not shorting out anywhere.

Sadly, very few shops have an Allen scope any more. (Old Timer test)

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor and a clean fuel system are a nice way to get confidence in a recently purchased MH.

Thanks Bill,

The first time it cut out was after crusing down the highway 50 miles or so, got off the highway accelerated fine than after going down a good incline to a stop light. It cut out on acceration leaving the light, did it a couple more times so I pulled over and removed gas cap and the was no pressure or vacuum in the tank. Got back in and crused too campground. It did it again after leaving camp and while getting on highway under acceration.

I have been using Lucas gas stabilizer and a Lucas fuel conditioner with upper cylinder lubricant since it sits quite a bit. So I give her a good ole cocktail at fillup.

I printed out your to-do list, thanks, great advice.

Did you check the accelerator pump in the carb?

Thanks Rusty,

One more thing to check, ahh life is good!

Does this miss pop in the intake at all? That is often a symptom of insufficient fuel.

Does it pop out the exhaust when it misses? That is often a sign of a weak coil or some other ignition problem. The missing causes unburned fuel to enter the exhaust, and then it is ignited with the next spark. This can be quite dramatic at night if you have side dumps.

Does the miss occur as the throttle is advanced or shortly thereafter?

Or does it miss on long acceleration with the throttle held down?

If it is the first case, it could be the accelerator pump. It does most of its shooting as the throttle is advance and right after.

If it is the second case, it could be the power piston.

There is a power piston in the Qjet that goes in and out of the primary jets by sensing engine vacuum. If it is stuck, or has a broken spring, you might get some popping in the intake. The Red Line Fuel System Cleaner should free it up if it is stuck. Sometimes squirting a little Berryman's in the right hole will free it up. If you wanna check it yourself, there is a way (without removing the top of the carb) by poking something down a hole.

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12V onboard air compressor system (gotta get them air horns going!)...

I'm with you on this one Steve, I need those air horns. When fellow Barthers were leaving the GTG they would blow their air horns, well when I left I blew my horn and my wife and I looked at each other and said "we need air horns"!

Bill, she would hesitate on direct acceleration, did not backfire or run rough. Just decided not to take off, so I backed off immediately and just eased up to speed. Any attempt at a sudden acceration she would die off.

I ordered a new filter element for my inline Fram fuel filter #HPGC1 and fuel filter for carburator inlet. So I'll start with that, plus I order a fancy new timing gun with a advance dial (yee-haw!!)

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a 12V onboard air compressor system (gotta get them air horns going!)

Look here.

Just thought of another thing in the distributor.

Check for free movement of the vacuum advance and centrifugal weights.

With your new timing light, you can check to see if the vacuum advance is working.

I have a throttle cable



going down underneath so I can pull on it while watching the timing marks.

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Originally posted by Tom & Loraine:

I ordered a new filter element for my inline Fram fuel filter #HPGC1 and fuel filter for carburator inlet.

Check for country of manufacture. Some Frams are Chinese. Some of them will come apart and mess up your carb big time.

One item I see missing from the list of things to check is a split or cracked vacume line. Have even seen intermittent problem where it opens and seals as engine moves.

Doorman

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Originally posted by Doorman:
One item I see missing from the list of things to check is a split or cracked vacume line. Have even seen intermittent problem where it opens and seals as engine moves.

Doorman

Yup, that's another common victim of heat damage. I like the dull orange silicone line that NAPA sells. Seems not to age at all.