(I do recommend the use of multiple paragraphs to make posts more readable )

There are two solenoids/relays that have been referenced in this thread.

The first one - that Nick had to replace - powers the house 12 VDC bus.

The second one, energized by the ignition switch, powers the chassis 12 VDC bus. On mine, the starter solenoid is independent of this bus; while I have the AMG engine and a GM wiring scheme, I suspect the Cummins-powered Breakaways have the starter solenoid independent of the 12 VDC bus.

However, that relay may power other things on the engine like the fuel shutoff solenoid (and on mine th electric lift (fuel) pump, which could cause the engine to stop if it failed.

If the engine doesn't want to start and other 12 VDC things work (like the HVAC fan), I'd suspect the battery grounds and the neutral start switch.

The failures of mine and others points to the use of an intermittant rather than continuous duty relay. The common ones that look right are the intermittant type and you have to be sure you get continuous duty. From this relay, (or contactor) the circuits downstream are all breaker protected and none approach more than 40 amps. Even if all were on at the same time it is doubtfull that any relay of 65 or 85 amps would ever get hot enough to fail. It is the coil current that is burning up the relay, not the load.

quote:

It is the coil current that is burning up the relay, not the load.

A very important point!

Up-Date
I put the new solenoid in (a few weeks ago), set up the internal switch for its use and waited--- the new switch, IF it actually runs cooler--- it is not discernible by the use of the finger method of temperature measurement---- dam, I was really hoping to reduce this parasitic draw of power.

Bud

The Night the Lights went out in Georgia PART II

Recently had the house batteries run down while plugged into shore power. Immediate thought was a bad converter/charger. My coach was equipped with an Intelli-power 9180 80 amp converter/charger. Sure enough the multi-meter showed ZERO output from the unit.

I decided to replace the unit with the newer model 9280 unit. This newer unit is equipped with the "charge wizard" and four stage charger. It puts out 14.4 volts to fast charge a low battery.

The unit is an exact replacement for the older unit. All connections and even the mounting screws are exactly the same as the old unit. Camping World gets about $379.00 for the 9280. I found one on Ebay for $183.00 with free shipping.

Nick

Nick: how did you did you decide on the 80 amp, do you have an inverter as well?
Our charger is 45 amp and seems to produce quite adequate power.
The Barth Manual with our Breakaway had a note indicating the the switch (main one by the door) be turned off when using shore power. This is probably no longer required if you have a newer & smarter charger-- the one we are still using only has a high and a low setting, so we still turn off the switch (which in theory would give us immediate info if the charger quit and a few hours of battery power thereafter).

Bud

quote:

Originally posted by Nick Cagle:
My coach was equipped with an Intelli-power 9180
I decided to replace the unit with the newer model 9280 unit.

Where was it made?

quote:

It puts out 14.4 volts to fast charge a low battery.

What size is your battery bank? Does it do the full 80 amps when your batteries are down to 50% SOC?

Bill and Bud,

I used the 80 amp charger because that was what was in the coach. I did not do any calculations to determine if I could use a smaller unit. The Inteli Power 9200 series does come in 30, 40, 45, 60, 70, & 80 amp versions.

The unit is built by Progressive Dynamics Inc. in Marshall, Michigan.

The manual does not indicate a different amperage output at the different charge modes. This is out of the manual that came with the unit.

Boost Mode 14.4V to return the battery to 90%.
Normal Mode 13.6V to fully charge the battery to 100%
Storage Mode 13.2V to maintain the charge. In Storage Mode the microprocessor increase the volage to 14.4 for 15 minutes every 21 hours to help reduce sulfation of the battery plates.

I currently have 2 golf cart batteries for the house and 2 8D's for the chassis. When I get around to it (where have I heard that before) I want to rework the battery tray to hold 4 golf cart batteries. Don't think I really need them but then I have been accused of OVERKILL more than once.

Nick

I was just curious how close to its rated output it puts into a half-down battery bank. That figure seems hard to come by.

Back to the discussion on constant(continuous) duty solenoids. Bud@YXY said that his NAPA guy told him that the NAPA ST 85(made in China) only operated @ 80%. My NAPA guy didn't know anything about that. I also called Cole Hersee and asked about their 24115. The engineer said it was not internally grounded. Said you had to go to a Cole Hersee 24106 to get the internal ground.(but it only has three posts).
So, Question: Do I buy the $68 NAPA ST85(made in China)or the Cole Hersee 24106(Made in Mexico)? I believe Nick said the internal ground was important.I don't think the ST 85 is internally grounded. So, as usual, I'm totally befuddled.
Jim

An internal ground will normally have one post that you apply 12vdc to so it will pick. Just make sure you have good contact between the solinoid and chassis. With the external ground you will have to run a wire from one of the posts to ground. Normally makes no difference which side you ground.

Whether a relay has a ground terminal or a case ground, I like to run a good ground wire to the frame or engine block, just to be sure of a really good ground.

Bad grounds can drive you crazy, and a case ground seems to have more opportunity to cause trouble.

If my brain is working that day, I provide a good ground first, when troubleshooting.

My Breakaway has the ST-85 and it is a 4 terminal relay. All above3 are right, doesn't matter which of the smaller terminals is ground and the other goes to the key switched +12 VDC.

Continuous duty? I can't say but I have had this relay in for 5 years and most times I drive for 12-15 hours while traveling. Yes gets warm but not had a failure so far. The original relay also a ST-85 failed right after I got the coach. I do carry a spare as I do with other semi-critical items.

Made in China? Mexico? This is just a fact of life here now and I don't think in most cases it makes any difference! The water pump that failed on the Cummins 5.9L was made in Mexico, the replacement pump also from Mexico and the fan belt (also from Cummins) was made in China.

It is a fact that most USA corporations are out-sourcing to foreign countries for many reasons.

I do not know about the dynamics, but I purchased a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 9200 series to put in my Barth. I had a 75 amp but their closet is 80 so went with that. It has some option of an attachment to see what it is doing. Have not looked at that option yet.