Hey all!

First post here. I am a lurker, and possibly soon to be owner.

One concern that’s brought to mind is the lack of exterior access to the engine on the breakaway model. How would one do a engine replacement if the time came? Surely it would be pretty tough to carry a engine block in through the front door!

I replaced the engine in mine. Place the Barth over a pit, lower the old engine, move the coach off the pit, swap the old for the new, back over the pit, hoist the engine into place.

I modified the radiator access. Even though I haven't had to replace the engine yet (290,000 miles) It will be relatively easy.
Remove the radiator door, remove the rear bumper, remove the radiator assembly, all necessary connection and then come in from the rear with a big cherry picker, lift the engine/trans off the mounts and bring straight back. There is lots of room above the engine to lift it.

Depending what engine and transmission one would have determines what size cherry picker is needed.

As Rusty said the other way is to drop it out of the bottom, that could be done with a pit but probably easier on a truck lift.

On our '93 Gillig Regency the engine and transmission are on rails that are moveable. Open the rear doors and remove bolts on each side rail and slide the whole thing out. The bumper comes out with the rails. Of course lots of cables have to be disconnected and the hoses to the radiator and inter cooler have to be removed, but the accessibility is great. I think this is a feature of the Gillig bus on which this chassis was built. Perhaps all the Gillig's have this feature. When we had the bell housing spacer fixed to stop leaks from loose wet bolts, the shop was happy for the feature and our bill was over one thousand dollars less for labor.

The Spartan chassis under the Monarch also has engine and trans on rails, to be pulled/slid out to the rear. Great feature for major work

First post...Have read some on engine swaps. I have 1985 Regal 31, 454 Chevy runs ok on the highway, but completely gutless going uphill. Would like some input on engine choice. Seems like 496 or 502 is popular. I know more is better when it comes to horsepower, but don’t want to go overboard. Really just want lots of torque for hills. Current engine only has 90k on it. Thought about getting rid of smog equipment,better heads and exhaust. Trying to decide which way to go.

I put a 454HO in my 33ft Regal a while back. Also changed over to TBI fuel injection. Huge improvement. The OEM 454 was rated 240 hp the 454HO was 425!

On the 33ft the 454HO cam was a big too aggressive. Low end at 55 was not ideal but it pulled HARD to over 90. I switched to a 502HT cam and it was great. Down to about 400 hp now. Pulls real strong all the way from 45 to over 80. Mileage even improved from 6.5 with carb to 8 when done. Considering the changes I made to the 454 I think if I did it again I would go with a 502HT engine. They have smaller valves and valve rotators and may last longer.

The full story is here:
https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...1087061/m/6693923287

I sold it to Barth-Vader and he is very happy.

Be aware that ANY mods will prevent sale in California...

quote:

Originally posted by csnasdell: Thought about getting rid of smog equipment,better heads and exhaust. Trying to decide which way to go.

Be careful about removing SMOG equipment, We are both here in CA and they don't think kindly about that. Further, if you replace the engine, you must have the original SMOG equipment of the year of your coach or the year of the engine you are using for the transplant but can not be earlier than your coach build year. Any aftermarket equipment that would change the induction system or exhaust must be C.A.R.B approved with an approval number. Prior to 1976 no issue but after that it is trouble.

I have done over 40 engine transplants and know the regulations well

I live in Amador County, no smog checks unless ownership change. I don’t plan on selling anytime soon,so smog is not an issue as far as I am concerned. Yes, I’m a tad left of center...

Good ole California, and a few other states or counties that do exhaust checks.

The PO of nose removed the AIR pumps and I completed the job by removing the EGR valve it was stuck partially closed. I also took them off a 454 Winnie I used to have it was an 85 and decreased the fuel consumption from 7 to about 8 mpg at 65 mph. I did keep the pumps and brackets and gave them to the person I sold it to. EGR was trash though.

Plugging the holes used by the AIR pumps, it is hard to find plugs that fit the thread they used, changing to headers is probably the best, I used 1/4 pipe plugs and pounded them into the holes after screwing them in, once in a while one would pop out, do keep spares!

Yes, definitely going to headers of some sort. I will keep all the smog equipment just in case. I think i’m Leaning toward the 502. Not to concerned about redline, just want a bunch of torque. Any input about transmission snags I may run into will be appreciated. From what I understand it should bolt right up, but I read something about flex plate holes not lineing up.

SteveVW has the experience with this engine change, and he loves to help where he can. I would not swap engines unless my engine went Kaputt, check Steves write-up, he did a bang-up job for sure. Good luck!