read this--

https://www.twentymotion.com/b...g-wire-sets-reviews/

quote:

Originally posted by Doug Smiley:
read this--

https://www.twentymotion.com/b...g-wire-sets-reviews/

Geez Doug; I can not believe they recommend the Delco set as the best, perhaps the professional set exceeds the standard, but I bet they have the same spark plug connections. As I said mine kept coming off the plugs.

Going to take a plug with me this time, make sure the plug and connector make a nice tight fit..

Thanks for the URL

You can take the bulb off the plug and install ring terminals (like airplane engines) and then modify the rubber boot to eliminate this problem. Dr. Google has several kits that fix this permanently.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom and Julie:
You can take the bulb off the plug and install ring terminals (like airplane engines) and then modify the rubber boot to eliminate this problem. Dr. Google has several kits that fix this permanently.

Great Idea. gonna search that out....Thank you!!!

With everything happening to other coaches, perhaps some not so bad news is welcome. I have had some good news on a few of the problems confronting ole Nose. The rear drum brakes are in pretty good shape, I took the drivers side drum off and had a look, the shoes are in good shape and the drum is smooth, my guess is the only problem was they were way out of adjustment.

The starter was giving me fits, thanks to SteveVW, I have a new mini starter that I just installed, the nose of the existing one had cracked and would not engage, I bought it about a year ago, O'Reiley replaced it, now it is my backup. To get the proper spacing on the gear engagement of the Mini took 8 shims, the original only had one, I wonder if the old replacement needed more shims. that might be why the front cracked. Nose now cranks using only the starter battery..Whoopie!

The alternator had a loose output fitting. I took it back to O'Reiley they replaced it, might have been the problem with belts breaking, doing the check SteveVW suggested let you know the results.

I could not find ring terminal spark plug wires, Advanced Auto had a set of Car Quest wires very similar to the original set, I tried the fit to plugs and I think they will work out just fine, will install them soon.

Ordered a new electric fuel pump, the replacement I have is gravity feed and needs to be within 12 inches of the fuel source, impossible with 2 tanks, I did not notice when I bought it a year ago that it had this requirement. fuel delivery and vapor lock, If I were a rich man I would have a TBI!!!!

Some bad news, the overheat may have caused the rear engine seal to leak, need to evaluate. My new to me refrigerator is still not up to snuff, but I have not given up on it!!

So Memphis is not out of the question, but not completely viable yet!!

The cooling hose from the radiator to the water pump inlet seems to have suffered from the overheat, I had to cobble up a working solution, but I need tp find a better hose, it is not stock so I have to kinda Rube Goldberg it.

The engine seems to run fine!!!

You've been busy
Sounds Good.

My new to me refrigerator is still not up to snuff, but I have not given up on it!!

Duane did you make sure it is level? You know they hate not being level. DBarth wouldn't cool if not pretty close to level.

I have finally got to the point where I am trying to get the problem worked out that caused all this trouble, BREAKING FAN BELTS!

A new alternator, seems all the data points to running the belt in the farthest from the engine belt groove, The belt runs smooth or at least seems like it. Charging seems to be normal.

Here is the problem, right now! I run it in the driveway as fast I care to run the engine, all seems fine. So road test!! Engine runs great, lots of power, still a bit of noise on one of the lifters but I can correct that. The bad news is as soon as I get to 45+ MPH the belt starts to squeal like a pig knowing it is going to the roast!

Back to the driveway and. no noise at any RPM. So what the heck is going on, help please! Although I can not verify it, however I THINK the squeal is at the alternator the other pulleys have a bit of roughness in the groove whereas the alternator is new and smooth.

I tighten the belt again, seems too tight now, I have not road tested it yet.

Another interesting observation, I hooked a volt meter to the alternator sensing terminal, with the engine off it reads a steady 13.5 volts battery voltage, when the engine is running it bounces all over the map, no steady reading, is this normal or just because I am using a digital volt meter?

Road test of tightened alternator belt, Squeal changed from 45MPH to 55MPH, I must be wrong but it seems to be related to MPH not RPM.

Right after I start it I get a squeal for a couple of seconds, then in the driveway I can rev to any RPM with not a squeal. Voltage does not fluctuate holds true at all RPM about 15 volts. Gonna check the tension again but not change it, then disconnect the alternator and road test!

I do have a fuel delivery problem, the engine bogs a bit under hard acceleration, I will be glad when the new electric fuel pump gets here, hope it solves that. Might replace the manual fuel pump too.

The brakes are better than they have ever been, but a lot of dust must be on the front calipers, when they get hot they squeal also, Nose has a lot of pig like tendencies.

I do like the way the engine is running, new wires, plugs, coil, cap and electronics from the new distributor have helped a lot, I think.

I took off the valve covers and adjusted the valve to rocker arm clearance on the two valves that stuck open, I still hear one lifter on occasion, might just be from another valve a result of the overheat, might try some "Mouse Milk" as Rusty used to say.

Gonna call it a day!!!

This machine really enjoys baffling me!!! Ok, disconnected the alternator from the battery, left the sensing terminal and voltage readout in place, road test, up to 65MPH, no noise. I checked the belt it was a bit looser than it was, so I tightened it and reconnected the alternator, road test, fine no squeal up to 65 I wonder what changed?

Back in the driveway, revved it a bit and did get a squeal, noticed the voltage that used to be about 15 was now below 14 at the battery separator and about 13 at battery post. This makes me suspect I have a separator problem. I did replace the cable from the starter to the battery, pretty sure there is no problem there. Open for opinion!!!

Because I am dealing with Nose, now the power steering pump belt is squealing, but I have not touched it since I put the new pump in 2 years ago, and Nose loves to get on my nerves and give me something else to do, perhaps just tightening might do the trick.

The old girl is running well, if it had done this well on the weekend I might have tried to make the Memphis GTG. It is cooler today so I did not have much bog down under acceleration. I did get the new electric fuel pump from Ebay today, it is not as advertised, and no instructions, my fear is it will not create adequate vacuum to draw from the tanks, the Ebay ad said it was self priming, I am going to check it, if it is not this test will probably void me being able to return it, I hope it lifts at least two foot of fuel from dry!

I have a plastic see through inline fuel filter, took a look at it today and the filter is crushed. That may be part of the fuel starvation issue. I have several better filters but I like the ability to see inside, they are cheap and easy to replace. I wonder if that was the cause of zero pressure from my current electric fuel pump. Deal with that and the pump tomorrow!! Another couple of road tests!!!

Are you sure that your pitch on the belts are correct. Just thought I’d throw that out there.

quote:

Originally posted by REGLOVER:
Are you sure that your pitch on the belts are correct. Just thought I’d throw that out there.

Ralph, no I am not positive, I guess I just let the parts guy give belts that work on Chevy 454. Is there a better way?

Crazy thought, make a roll of modeling clay about6-8" long and a little larger than the sheave. Spray the sheave with a mist of water, squeeze the clay into the groove, remove and presto you have the profile. You can take this and a good supplier will have a profile gauge so you can match and be assured. Added information would be the width of the top of the sheave.
Problem with 454 and 350's is the length of production and variations in applications and options. You probably have the right belt but if not there is a lot of tickmeoff available.
Going to a raw edge belt rather than fabric covered belt would be an option also.

Here are the post screw ends I suggested. https://www.sevensinschoppers....w_Nu_p/s-elec-rn.htm. Use your normal wires.

I put the fuel filter in and did a road test, there is no hesitation under heavy load, I need to get a hot day and road test it with warm fuel see if the existing pump will pump pressure at operating temperature.