Do I have to pull my axles to remove my rotors for turning? I just had a quick look before the rain came. If so, what do I need to know to remove, re-install. Are the planetary gears in the rearend going to drop? I did a search, couldn't find any info.

Determine your chassis and search under that name. Spartan, GM, etc. Add a picture or two and we may be able to help. BTW, just because the pads or shoes are worn or there is a lip on the rotor does not mean you have to turn them. If they are smooth with no deep gouges they will still work fine.

Remove wheels , remove, calipers, remove axles(they just slide out). remove locking tab washer 2 nuts spacer, bearing and remove rotor. they are heavy. you will lose some rear end oil out the housing. Clean well and install new seals before re- installing.

Nothing is going to fall out in your rear end when you pull your axles.

There is some variation in rear axles, ie Chev, Dana or Rockwell. This is the only service I haven't done yet on mine, (soon, I have scheduled rear axle overhaul after the engine swap!) so I can't speak personally. Sounds like Craig has done it.

You will find P30 manuals here:

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...&s=7031072951&cdra=Y

Try Part 2 for axle and brake info.

Do you know which rear axle you have? If you have a floating axle type with the removable axles, do as Craig has suggested HOWEVER, the bolts that hold the axles in have tapered washers that will bind, that is the way it is designed. The correct way to remove the axles are to take the retaining bolts off (after wheels, calipers are removed) and then hit the center of the axle hard with a 3 lb hammer. This will loosen the tapered washers and then the axle will slide out. DO NOT try to pry the axle out by putting anything between the axle flange and the hub. This will scratch or gouge the surface and you will have a leak.

On reassembly, I also suggest that seals on the hub be replaced. Be careful to use the proper tool to install the seals, they can be badly damaged if they are beat in or installed incorrectly!

The BIG retaining nut(s) need to be properly torqued and then backed off for the proper end play. To tight or to lose will cause premature bearing failure. There are specs and procedure on how this should be done and varies with axle type.

If you have never done a floating axle before I suggest strongly that you have a professional do this or at least have professional advice along the way.

HTH

quote:

Originally posted by Doorman:
you will lose some rear end oil out the housing.

If you do them one at a time, you can raise the side you are working on and the oil will stay on the low side.

Also, I line up an in-stock source for new rotors before I start, just in case the rotors can not be turned.

Thanks once again for the great info. I'll be printing those manuals off at work. Then I'll need to buy a binder.

I've done full floaters before, for a first time on this unit I just like to cover bases. Torque numbers are important. I might be able to get away with hoses, pads and calipers. The rotors look pretty new, just a bit rusty.