According to Dometic:
LEVELING THE REFRIGERATOR
Leveling is one of the requirements for proper operation with absorption refrigerators. To ensure proper leveling the vehicle needs to be leveled so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of floor or walls).
Any time the vehicle is parked for several hours with the refrigerator operating, the vehicle should be leveled to al- low proper cooling.
When the vehicle is moving, the leveling is not critical, as the rolling and pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side of level, keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing.

http://www.dometic.com/QBank/E...ing-Manual_17595.pdf

To throw another factor in to this, I noticed today a toggle in the top of the door opening that reads climate control. It was in the off position, but we have no way of knowing if it was always off or not. Plugged the coach back in and turned on the fridge again. We'll see.

At 12:30 pm temp about 85 the fridge is at 44. Not cold enough but better. Setting is 4 of 5.

At 6 pm after switching to lp for 2 hours 14 in freezer and 45 in fridge. Moved up to 5 to see of it cools any more. Can't figure out why it can almost work but not quite.

It appears to me that the cooling unit is working and you have control problems that start with thermostat. I know ours works great on ac but doesn't cool as well on lpg. Not certain why but need to climb up and clean the flue to see if that helps. Also need to check if there is a flame adjustment.

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Z:
At 6 pm after switching to lp for 2 hours 14 in freezer and 45 in fridge. Moved up to 5 to see of it cools any more. Can't figure out why it can almost work but not quite.

Dan silly question!are your top and cooler evaps blocked ?if so that miht be the problem.Defrost and try at no 3 setting also make sure door closes properly(also door gaskets)Just in case wally -van-isle-

Danny: I think the Climate Control operates a small heater around the door edge. In humid times, there is condensation and the bottom door seal is wet. In those conditions, you can turn the heater on to reduce condensation. It does use more power and doesn't help the food stay cool, though.

Even if the crane rental is high, you may still want to try the upside down thing. I thought it was a bit far fetched but I just bought a used full size gas fridge for my cabin. It is an E-Z Freeze model but here is an excerpt from the owner's manual. The symptoms sound a bit like yours. It just might work.

Update. Ran Onan yesterday with AC on, got it down from 100+ to 80 in about 40 minutes. Satisfied with that so plugged back in to 110 [15] and turned off AC. Turned on fridge to 3 over night and had 8 degrees in the freeze this am. Upped to 4 during the day and now have 54 in the fridge, with interior temp of 108 in the coach. Am I asking too much from the fridge?

Still not where it should be - and the reefer is more dependent on outside temp than inside. Freezer should hit 0° and fridge 40°. Let it run and see where it gets. Turn control to high.

I had the exact same issue with my fridge, it would start to cool great. Freezer would be at 0 and the fridge 37, then the longer it ran the warmer it would get. I did the flip method, I pulled the fridge out turned it upside down and shook it real good let it set. Flipped it back upright and repeated the procedure. After that it worked perfect.

I was told if your coach sits a lot or you don't level your coach the refrigerant will crystalize on the orifices and prevent proper flow of the refrigerant and the efficiently drops. I also heard that if you travel with the fridge running it helps prevent crystalizing of the refrigerant.

I heard all this from a Marine mechanic, he claims they do this all the time on cabin cruisers and Yachts.

It all made sense so I tried it and it worked for me. It was like a brand new fridge after that.

Been working on the coach for the last few days and the fridge just won't work when it's really hot. 100+ in the coach. 14 in the freezer and 45 in the fridge, but down to acceptable temps at night. 110 only, as I'm out of LP, but does that make any difference? I really don't want to take it out and turn it over for nothing, but if that's what it takes I might give it a try.

I don't think that turning mine over will do any good as the smell that hit me when I started it up for the first time this season took a week to clear out of the Barth. The good part of it is, its a Barth and most equipment in it is still being made. All who wander are not lost.

Freezer at 4 this am. Sloop, lots of mixed feelings on if it's worth while replacing the cooling unit. It's about half of a new fridge but some have had less than great results. I'm going to check and clean the flue today to see if that helps.

Have fixed by turning upside down in past units. When Reagal fridge went bad I installed 120v home fridge. Bought from Menards for under $150. Most time I am where 120 is available. I will either run gen. on the road or ice box it. Run gen. for A/C most the time. If boon docking for a few day I have a pan to put ice in and a small D cell fan to make an ice box out of it. If my house battery are up it will run for a day or 2 off my inverter. Have been using it that way for the past 4 years or so that way. Hope one day to get a 1000w honda gen/inverter for where I don't have 120 ac.

In my case, it appears that one semi-violent jolt was all it took to bring the reefer back to life.

My Dometic RM-100 recently stopped cooling after 38 faithful years of service; I could produce heat in both gas & electric modes, but no cooling. Took a 300 mile trip, hoping coach movement may shake things loose - no joy.....

Last week, took a 700 mile trip. I had inadvertently left reefer in electric mode and had genny running for A/C and plugged in at night
at campgrounds. On 4th travel day, a tight curb radius combined with poor distance judgement on my part caused the duals directly under the reefer to climb up on and fall off a 10" curb, with a jaw-shaking landing. After inspection for potential damage, we proceeded 4 hours and settled in to a KOA.

Later that evening, I opened fridge to access the
beverge ice cooler stored inside. To my amazement, the freezer was at zero and the fridge was at 38F. I have to think the curb jump was the remedy. Fridge has been running for 5 days now.

At best, I've avoided a $1200+ fridge replacement. (25% of the entire coach's value!)
At worst I've at least delayed the process.

Too bad I had already removed all the shelving in preparation for new fridge - all the removable innards are already at the recycling center