I replaced because I was having to use acc start now all I have is acc start. what happened? I used volt meter and checked all 3 solenoids. the 1 in electecal compartment and two in engine compartment they all show voltage same as house batteries. the votage is higher in start batteries. I did notice that the cables going to the starter had been cleaned do they have to go on the stud in any certain order? It appearts that the altenator and genny are charging both house and start batteries. All I did was Install 2 start batteries. what do Ilook for?
Lloyd

The acc/emerg start closes a relay to put all the batteries in parallel, in case the chassis batteries are low or dead.

The alternator output should go to an isolator (and the preferred way of putting terminals on that output stud is first the largest (by wire size, not terminal size), then the others in decreasing size). That isolator will charge house and chassis batteries when the engine is running.

The genset will charge only the house batteries.

It sounds to me like the chassis and house batteries have been tied in together (hardwired in parallel), if the genset is indeed charging them.

Anyhow, the alternator output goes to to the isolator, then to the batteries. There should be a heavy wire going from the chassis batteries to the starter solenoid. I suspect this wire has been inadvertently connected to the house batteries.

So there are two possible issues (maybe more that I can't think of...):

1. House and chassis batteries hardwired in parallel
2. Starter cable connected to the wrong battery pair (depending on the wiring scheme used in your coach, this wire may also be causing all the batteries to be wired in parallel).

Rusty I want to thank you for info and fas response. I went out and tried to change the cables but you cant becuse of lengths. I was sure I put every thing back right. so turned both shut off switchs on and off several times and the start batteries worked. must be something to do with engine compartment switch.
Iwill ck chargeing system next day or so its 90 out side time to go have cold one.

Glad things worked out - electrical problems sometimes solve themselves with just a bit of coaxing...

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
...electrical problems sometimes solve themselves with just a bit of coaxing...

It sounds like the "shut off switchs" going to the starter battery is starting to fail. After he turned them off and back on a couple of times it made a better contact and allowed the coach to start. I would be a little wary of the electrical shutoff switch for the starter batteries.

Check the cables on the back side of that switch. Because the battery power is constant, corrosion will grow there and "inside the switch contacts" as well.

Bill N.Y.

I wonder if there is one (a chassis battery cutout switch), or whether the problem is in the starter solenoid. My Breakaway doesn't have a switch for the chassis batteries, but I don't know about Regencies...

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
I wonder...

Me too Rusty. Lloyd replaced those batteries before testing it out. It still did the exact same thing after changing out the batteries. Now it's working without repairing anything...

That's the biggest problem with electrical. If you don't diagnose it with the proper tools and corner the problem before it starts working again your bound to have a problem in the future.

Let us count the ways...
1) Batteries
2) Key switch
3) Starter motor
4) Shutoff switches
5) Neutral safety switch
6) Starter motor solenoid
7) The "L" strap on the starter
8) Firewall mounted starter solenoid
9) Bad wiring, grounds or other connections
10) Some units also have shutoffs that won't allow a crank condition because of a perceived problem in another area. These could include: no cranks for low coolant level, engine overheat condition and even a replaceable thermal cutoff switch built into the starter motor case.

While most of item 10 doesn't apply to Barth's, in this instant it could be anything. The theory and practical use of electricity is one of my favorite topics...

Lloyd, if it acts up again use a test light while someone else tries to start it. You'll need to find this before your sitting in a fuel island at a truckstop. Most places will tow you out before allowing any repairs to be done around flammables.

Bill N.Y.

Bill I did have 2 failing batteries they where only 2 years old and nappa both had bad cell put biggest interstate I could install even had to lengten battery box 1". Idid take volt meter and seemed to have power to all solenoids. ther are 2 switchs in engine room for rear start one was replaced maybe its not good. I have a new one. there is no sign of corrosion at any of the switches. It did this in eastern wa. but it was 95 cat book says they will do this at high temp. got to go.

Bill N Y has covered all the bases. As far as the engine room switches go, I'm still foggy on their functions, but if one is in the circuit and causing the problem, it could be an internal fault, even though the terminals aren't corroded.

I don't recall on the 3208, but the 3116 and 3126 had overheat and low oil shutdowns. I think there was another, but I can't remember what that might have sensed.

Now that I think about it, a friend had an issue with a false overheat shutdown on his 3116 - I don't recall if the problem was the sender or relay, but he had a couple of OTR shutdowns, and had to wait an hour to get a restart.

quote:

Originally posted by Lloyd Knudson:
I did take volt meter and seemed to have power to all solenoids... there is no sign of corrosion at any of the switches.

While you may be able to read good static (unloaded) voltage the true test is under a load. If it acts up again have someone try to start it while your checking it out. This way if it's passing enough voltage to give you good readings while static it will show up bad while attempting to crank.

The fact that there's no visible signs of corrosion doesn't mean that the inside of it isn't loaded up with green crud. Just keep this stuff in mind the next time your checking it out.

Bill N.Y.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
While you may be able to read good static (unloaded) voltage the true test is under a load. If it acts up again have someone try to start it while your checking it out. This way if it's passing enough voltage to give you good readings while static it will show up bad while attempting to crank.

The fact that there's no visible signs of corrosion doesn't mean that the inside of it isn't loaded up with green crud. Just keep this stuff in mind the next time your checking it out.

Bill N.Y.

This is also very good general advice for all circuits, and should be remembered by everyone.

Heck, print it and keep it in the case with your meter.

I would add that at work, I made up test lights that would draw 2 1/2, 5, 7 1/2, 10, 15 and 20 amps so we could test any circuit at its full breaker capacity. We had a carbon pile with an ammeter for larger loads. Quite often, a fault would not show itself until fully loaded. Be glad none of you work on three phase circuits with differential fault protection.

Bill NY I sent the rv to shop they told me that the 2 8d s where the start batteries which I replaced with deep cycle and the two 27 where the house batteries. I just could not belive the 27 s where the house batteries soI had them change wiring so I could use 8d s for house batteries because they where deep cycle and less than year old.I think the generator should be starting off the sart batteries too and I think they have it starting off house batteries so I have to take back again. I did find bad ground on adapter for 8d s. They told me that the 8d s where used for start batteries because the 3208 cat has no glow plug. IT'S been a learning experance to say the least.

Lloyd

quote:

Originally posted by Lloyd Knudson:
IT'S been a learning experance to say the least.

At least your willing to learn and share... I'm glad they tracked it down for you.

quote:

Originally posted by Lloyd Knudson:
I think the generator should be starting off the sart batteries too and I think they have it starting off house batteries...

Here lies a problem. Most of these generators will draw power without recharging your batteries. They have a battery charger that's plugged into your electrical outlet and charger cables that run to your house battery.

Because the generator is running off of the house batteries and your charger is recharging your house batteries there's no net loss of voltage. Now if you run the start batteries as your generator start circuit you'll run down your start batteries while charging only your house circuit.

The generator needs electricity to run the electric fuel pump and voltage for the coil. Some generators produce there own voltage but most do not. Some chargers will charge both sets of batteries but most do not.

If your going to sink this kind of money into it have them check out all circuits for this transformation. I would also invest in a big switch for paralleling both battery banks.

Bill N.Y.

I added a second 45 watt IntelliPower converter/charger with a Smart Wizard to charge the start batteries when running the generator. I also placed a 12 volt disconnect in the line so that I could shut it off if I was running the generator and driving at the same time. This prevents dual charging from the alternator circuit and the IntelliPower charger/converter.

Bill G

quote:

This prevents dual charging from the alternator circuit and the IntelliPower charger/converter.

Is that a bad thing?........I just did the Intelipower/Smart Wizard install and routinely run the genset for the A/C while on the road, and I sure wouldn't want to hurt the new house battery if this is an issue......