Hello all! Hit a tire glad we didn’t die or do more damage. Black tank busted and was a job to remove BUT remove it I did. Can it be repaired or will I need a new tank?

Depending on the composition of the tank, you could patch fairly easily with epoxy. Clean it up well and get it rough. Smear thick paste in cracks then cover area with fiberglass cloth. Will adhere to ABS but not so well with polyethylene.

Polyethylene cracks can sometimes be solvent or thermal welded but not big cracks like yours.

Maybe a salvage tank if the dimensions are common.

I recommend epoxy, fiberglass, then epoxy top coat. As to all epoxies adhesion is the primary concern. I often us a Dremel (various bits do fine) to roughen the surfaces. Then after extensive mixing of the 2 parts I firmly knead some of the product into each roughened surface. I follow by topping with the remainder.

Hello Ted, Steve, Paul, Jamie, & all other epoxy & fiberglass aficionados past, present, & future. I recommend googling "The Epoxy Book" available from System Three Resins as a PDF download, about 40 pages long & pretty much covers most of what one needs to know to have a successful result. I like System Three Resins(have tried them all) using the slow #3 hardener & never really had a failure, unless I screwed up. System Three can be purchased from a number of Marine suppliers, but I greatly prefer using Merton's Fiberglass(www.mertons.com). Joe is a fantastic guy & will answer your questions if need be. We have done a lot of business with him over the decades.

Fixing a "black" tank doesn't sound especially appealing but I'm a bit squeamish.

Good Luck,

John

If all else fails, as it did with me years ago, contact PPL in Texas with the dimensions and drain location and they should be able to find you one. You will have to drill the intake holes but since you have the old tank as reference that shouldn't be a big deal.

Thanks everyone. I will try fiberglass this weekend and post pics. When I took the black tank off, there were long threaded rods with large flat ends that recess down in the floor. I had to cut them off to remove the tank. Is there a source for these or will I have to have some welded up.

John, thanks for the The Epoxy Book reference! It is indeed a REALLY good discussion of epoxies and uses. Best I have seen. Since my background with epoxies has been with boats I knew most of the information but it is a great collection of facts and advice.

I have used System 3 products with great success. West products also. Depending on suppliers location, shipping may be an issue. These are considered hazardous materials by some carriers. If you can get them locally they are usually cheaper.

There are many uses for epoxies and they are highly effective for repairs. Good stuff!

Hello Steve VW,

You're welcome for the advice to download the System Three Epoxy book. At one time, I had five or six of their paperback versions laying around the office or in my shop but a few of my friends "borrowed" them(actually I was glad to get rid of the clutter) & now I'm down to two copies. I would estimate that we've purchased at least 200 gallons of System Three resin & hardener over the years. As I've mentioned, I have used other epoxies including West System & have no problem with theirs or West's performance, however, the simplistic 2 to 1 mix of the System Three makes it easier for me to successfully mix very small amounts in a medicine cup. We seal all of our counter-sunk screw holes with epoxy & often mix amounts smaller than 1 oz. As you mentioned, epoxy has many uses. We have cold-molded various parts & strips (glued not fastened) on many of our sign products, & by incorporating these methods, they have held up well against deterioration from the elements for decades.

Thanks,

John

The epoxy worked like a charm. After I made new hanger bolts and replaced all the blade valves I am ready to go!