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fixed alot of little things today and noticed now when i turn on ignition i hear something running so i check it out and this is what i found, this is off of my 84-35ft regency with 8.2 dd Capt Bob 1984 35ft Regency MCC chassis 8.2 Detroit Turbo | |||
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3/23 |
Vacuum pump? | |||
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The Old Man and No Barth |
Compressor for air horns or air suspension? | |||
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11/12 |
It is a vacuum pump (motor) made by Gast. It is used to operated the doors on the HVAC system Here is a thread about me replacing mine. . Nick | |||
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FKA: noble97monarch 3/12 |
With a pump that ugly, it should be made by A---Gast! Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” | |||
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Well it does seem to be a Gast and now i can change my vents from defrosters to the vents, sounds like it is fillins a tank also, my cruise control didnt usto work maybe this may help and it feels like i can feel the suspension being adjusted , is this for suspension also and if so what will i notice different about my ride, i thought it rode very smooth already Capt Bob 1984 35ft Regency MCC chassis 8.2 Detroit Turbo | ||||
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also was wondering does this thing run continously or will it finally shut off, it hasnt worked for a couple years, its a little noisy but bearable Capt Bob 1984 35ft Regency MCC chassis 8.2 Detroit Turbo | ||||
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11/12 |
Bob, on my coach the only purpose of the Gast pump is the HVAC. The switch you see is to turn off the pump at between 18-22 inches. If it won't turn off you have a vacuum leak. This company has replacement pump: Model MOA-V111-JH $274.00 James Watson & Co. 29 Doran Ave Marietta, GA 30060 770-422-1154 They can also overhaul your pump for about $175.00 IIRC. Nick | |||
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thanks Nick, ill let it run some more to see if it kicks off Capt Bob 1984 35ft Regency MCC chassis 8.2 Detroit Turbo | ||||
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12/10 |
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i do have the MCC chassis, must of been my imagination, felt like the whole frame was beening lifted a little,it is located mid-frame infront of propane tank and behind fuel tank for generator, i replaced some fuses and this started working, i never heard it run before and now my ac vent controls work and maybe my cruise will, now to work on my blinkers , was having trouble with them , started messing with them and now they are not working at all Capt Bob 1984 35ft Regency MCC chassis 8.2 Detroit Turbo | ||||
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12/10 |
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3/11 |
The vacuum pump is only for the dash ac controls. The cruise and accelerator are linked to compressed air - not vacuum. If you notice when the air pressure is low you won't be able to accelerate the engine as the pedal will appear to not work. Once air builds up all is well. You probably have the old Bendix Cruise Control. The "brain" is mounted externally near the wheel well and they are obsolete. There are a few places that say they can rebuild them but it is much better to have modern controls and Cruise King makes a replacement that is electronic rather than air powered. One very poor design flaw on Barth is the single point of failure that a linked air control system causes. If you lose the belt on the engine driven air compressor you lose power steering, all the features linked to the system and after about three pumps on the brakes you lose them too. I experienced this and immediately started removing and replacing all the air powered stuff I could. Sprague Devices will sell an electric replacement for the wipers, Vintage Air has an electronic controlled ac evaporator (you don't need to replumb or replace the lines etc.) and you can convert the step to electric also. I don't know what to do about the steering or the brakes other than rely on the size of the reservoir to save the occupants. I have a 3208T and the air compressor is belt driven by two belts that are 70 inches long which are way too long and just about impossible to tighten to prevent the flapping that occurs. After five events of shredded belts and three trips to Caterpillar we bought Gillig proprietary belts and two tensioner gauges to exactly tension them to 300#. So far that has worked but if I were redesigning this I would not drive the compressor with a belt. This should be gear driven because it is too critical to allow a simple belt to cause such a potential catastrophe. I would add that the old mechanic trick of pushing down on a belt to get about 1/2 inch of distortion will not work, nor will tightening to where twisting the belt to 90 degrees is as far as you can twist. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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11/13 |
maybe you might want to check the condition of your pulleys. 60 some thousand miles and never a squeek out of our belts. I use the old mechanics tricks you just mentioned. No problem with adjusting any of them. Merry Xmas. | |||
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3/11 |
To all of you, from cold Texas! 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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