Well we though we would actually, have a trip this last week where we would have any problems with the "ol Barthmobile" however, 100 miles from home I noticed my amp meter was bottoming out so I was getting no charge. I thought I would try to get home but no chance. Luckily, I had Coach Net, and an alternator belt so two hours and $30.00 later I was on the road. The mobile mechanic said the pully on the alternator was sloppy and that we probably needed a new one. So here is my question.... Should I go ahead and get a beefier one. I think the one in here is 130 amp. Can't you get a 160 amp and won't that charge everything faster?

Thanks for the help.

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Shortcuts Always Take Longer



[This message has been edited by davebowers (edited August 14, 2002).]

Dave, you better stick with the original.

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Lee Merriman

Hi Dave, glad you got the barthmobile repaired and back underway in such a short time.... Everyone probably knows the answer to this question but this is how I learn.

What is Coach Net and what is an alternator hose?

Al you know what an alternator hose is. It's the hose where all that electricity stuff goes. If your hose is loose your electricity stuff will leak on the ground and your engine will die..

Make that alternator belt.....

Coach net is the FMCA www.fmca.com road side service. I think it is much better than some of the others. I still keep AAA for car rental discounts.

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Shortcuts Always Take Longer

An automotive alternator doesn't do much for the RV batteries. The Delcotron is temperature compensated, so that it charges like mad to replenish the battery after the starting load. As soon as it gets warm, the charge rate drops way down to a maintenance charge for the chassis battery. It takes a lot of engine running to charge a couple of deep cycle RV batteries. Plus, RV batts like to be bulk charged at 14.8 volts, which the Delcotron doesn't quite reach.

Dave, on a 400 mile return trip from the Sierra, I connected my Delcotron to my two golf cart batts, which were down to 60 percent. The alternator is a 100 amp model, and will pull more than that on the test bench. After the initial start up surge, it settled down to a little under 30 amps charge and took most of the trip to charge the batts. I switched the fridge to 12 volts, and the alt still put out its 30 amps, with most of that going to the fridge. My voltage read 13.1 most of the way, but rose to 13.2 when the coach batts finally became almost fully charged. I was most unimpressed with alternator charging of coach batts.

[This message has been edited by bill h (edited August 25, 2002).]

Sounds bill, that you voltage is too low. Should'n it be closer to 13.5 Volts ?
Having lot of equipment with batteries I am using battery maintainers, like the one here http://www.harborfreightusa.com/Displayitem_retail.taf?itemnumber=41288
they really extend the battery life, and ... no surprises when you try to start the engine after 3-4 months

Yup. That's why an engine driven alternator is not satisfactory for charging coach deep cycle batts. They need a 14.8 bulk charge first.
But 13.2 is about right for a float.

Well, my dash meter shows 14V when charging, so maybe there is the problem bill ?

K, is that voltmeter reading chassis battery? Have you compared it with a GOOD digital multimater? So many voltmeters are inaccurate.

Never had a problem with undercharging, so I assume it's OK. From what I remember the batteries isolator holds full charge for the engine battery till it reaches about 13.5V, and then opens circuit to house bat.
In another words - anything charging above 13.5V apply to both batteries.
And looks like your alternator/regulator bill are simply not giving enough volts.