....Planning to replace the OEM marker & clearance lights with LED units of the same physical size so I can continue to use the chrome light guards.....

From what I've read, this is a no-brainer and I don't need any new black boxes like those required for Stop Light/Turn Signal installations.....

Other than blowing about 60 bucks extra just for the LED's, is there anything else I should be considering?......Anyone with a history of LED experience?....Can I really figure that I'm set for a lifetime?....etc.

Lee I have used U.S.& foreign made lights and have had good service from them.

In taking Nick's ideas of changing the Clearance lights on the roof I came across what I believe is the reason I had been getting drips along the windshield area of my Regency. When originally built the lights apparently were installed first and the seam caulking along the front cap and the roof was applied late. This meant there was no caulk under the light as you can see in the pictures. while the light itself was caulked there is always some drainage around the lens and screws and that flows into the cracks. When changing lights, or resealing roofs you might want to remove the lights, apply caulk along the seams and then replace or install over the old areas. If you place a small dab of sealant around the screw or rivet holes and the wire lead it should not matter that a little water passes through as it can't penetrate the underside.

Once again I am defeated in trying to use the Photobucket approach. Can't there be a button at the top of the forum page that drops down the instructions? I just don't use pictures enough to memorize each step and the most recent try I sent the email with the pictures and they never appeared in the Photobucket.

I also get an occasional leak down my winshield in a heavy rain. Ours is a 91 with the diamond plate roof also. I have bought new lights, but have not installed them as yet. The only difference I see is that mine are rivited, looks like yours are screwed on, or did you change to screws? I also have one light that does not work, and it seems to be a ground issue. Thanks for the post!

I followed Nick's work and decided to change from rivets to screws. I drilled out the originals and used steel poly nuts for strength. My experience with aluminum rivets in areas subject to moisture was not good. they are too weak for tightening objects. I did use caulking to seal threads and the wire, but left the foam gasket alone. I believe you can overdo both tightening and sealing. As it is now any water that weeps below the light will have a way out.

Tom is referring to this PROJECT

Nick

I have anothe picture but when I click the upload below the Roy window the source button is brayed out and will not work - on my IPad. I will try with the regular Mac and see of it an Apple issue.

I hate auto correct! I meant to say the Reply window and it is grayed out.

Now how do you make the pictures smaller?

The most efficient way is to resize via Photoshop (or similar) or the image processing software that came with your camera, before uploading.

Doing that saves upload time and Photobucket resources.

Thanks, Ihabe to do more research as the IPad is not compatible with most of those, but at least the Mac works.
Tom