It was 38 degrees here last night. Reminds me it is time to winterize the coaches.

I really don't like using antifreeze except in the drain traps. Expensive, tastes like $#!t, and takes forever to rinse out of the system lines.

There is much discussion here on the site but not much recently or regarding the Monarchs.

86Barth is easy because it drains almost completely, with the exception of the antisiphon toilet valve. A little air pressure at the supply hose fitting and everything clears. I've done it each fall for five years and twice in the spring when we came home too soon and it snowed... no problems. It is done and resting inside the hangar.

Meanwhile, the 98 has a much more sophisticated system with a valved input and water tank bypass to allow purging with antifreeze. Simple and effective I'm sure but leaves antifreeze which must be rinsed in spring. I have already drained all tanks and I think most of the lines are empty also. I am seriously considering just blowing out with air and see what happens.

Has any one with the newer coaches tried this? I would be interested what winterizing tricks others have used and with what success? (If vodka/gin were cheaper they would work great!)

Rusty, Danny, Ed and Carl (Floridians) you will need to winterize as usual... long pants, sweatshirts and jackets all aboard!

Hi Steve,

We just winterized Tonka last week.

We've used propylene glycol RV antifreeze since we got her without any apparent issues. We avoid ethanol based RV antifreeze just to play it safe because of potential/unknown impacts on any rubber system components.

We rinse the system thoroughly a couple of times and sanitize it with a dilute bleach solution once in the spring. We haven't noticed any residual antifreeze odor issues but we only use the system water for nonpotable uses. Showers, washing, dish washing and toilet.

We use bottled water exclusively for drinking and cooking as we have noticed some pretty odd smelling well water at various RV parks. We play it safe as bottled water is cheaper than a spoiled vacation.

I was told by the RV dealer where we bought Tonka that we could blow out the lines in lieu of using antifreeze without any issues but to make sure the air pressure was kept under 30 psi.

Thanks,
Wally

Thanks Wally.

Between the expense and the aftertaste I am not a fan of the antifreeze. Good point on the pressure but I never got above 20 psi if that, just enough to move the water out of the lines. I start the with compressor at zero, turn on the faucets, then turn on the compressor. As soon as air burps out the lines I let the air run a bit longer and it is done.

Like you and others, we do not generally trust the water for drinking anyway.

Can't help you out Steve but would love to have a list of things to do on an older Barth. Specifically I'd like to know what needs to be donew with the heating system to winterize. Everything else seems pretty basic coming from a guy who spent years winterizing commercial pools and only once had a pipe crack (because a balloon failed).

You can blow out the lines or just add antifreeze or both. Few things we tend to over look. Put antifreeze in the p-traps in the kitchen, bathroom and shower. I also add some antifreeze to the hot water tank. The drain is not near enough to the bottom to evacuate all the water on my hot water tank. I remove the fresh water pump and air bladder, when I remove the reverse osmosis water system. Be sure the fresh and grey water tanks are empty and/or put a little antifreeze in there also. I think that should winterize the water system it, but sometimes it does not.

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My black water tank has a fresh water flush line that sometimes I forget about. Overdoing winterizing is better than fixing leaky pipes.

Hey, Steve. Perfect solution is a product called Key West. Leave now. Come back in April
Jim

Steve,
Last week I thought I'd try blowing out the lines on the Breakaway to avoid antifreeze in the water lines. After a good draining, I opened all the faucets and drain valves, and blew out until they were all clear. Then I opened each faucet, valve, and the toilet individually until clear. I repeated this a number of times. This took quite a while, (a LOT longer than pumping antifreeze) but it appeared to be all cleared out. I took the fittings off the water pump and made sure the pump was empty. I then put antifreeze in all the drains. Well, here in MN, I started to get paranoid about the chance of water pockets remaining. So I got out the antifreeze. As an experiment, I ran each faucet into a container. Well, low and behold, out came about a quart of clear water from the kitchen faucet. That answered the question for me. It may work fine on some models, but on this Breakaway, I'll just keep using antifreeze. Phil.

Two Minnesnowtans heard from so far. I guess I'll throw my 2 cents out. There are enough things out there to make us sick.. RV antifreeze why chance it. I have been blowing the lines yearly and have no rinsing to do. Once you know where your drain valves are blowing is simple. Keep the air pressure low and let er blow. Did it 2 weeks ago and moved Dbarth to it's winter spot. I will still drive until we get that slippery below freezing stuff................................................................................

Now outside to winterize the dogs automatic water. Put the winter partitions in the dog houses. Split some wood. Get another round of leaves off the yard.........

Thanks guys.

I will likely just drain and blow and see what happens. I have a hose with male threaded end and air connector at the other end. Hook that to the air line from the compressor and attach the hose to the coach input as usual and turn on the compressor.

I will report when I get south far enough this winter to use water again.

Here is an outside the box thought. When Air condition or refrigeration systems are drained and refilled, you pull a vacuum on the system. This lowers the boiling point of water and the water is vacuumed or boiled out. Has anyone ever pulled a vacuum on the water system of their Barth?

FWIW: For the few years I lived in Tennessee I had the 88 Regal SE then the 92 Breakaway. In both coaches I blew out the dedicated under ground water line to the parking area with 60 lbs of air, then connected to the coach and used 40 lbs of air to finish the job. Never had any problems....As for living in Florida, last winter months were much much warmer than normal and was super on the electric bill to heat the house...................Carl

I did not mention but others did make sure to use enough of the RV antifreeze into the traps after you have blown the lines and make sure to close all the valves so no creepy crawleeeees climb in anywhere. Also remember the exterior fresh water valves. Remember also to open the waste gate valves after everything else is complete. Bad place to have a ice caused break.