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Hope someone can help me with this. When I turn on my headlights they with fine. But when I tune on the bright lights all four lights start to flicker after a few minutes. This happens every time. Any ideas on what is wrong? Jax 1990 Regency 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
It sounds like a bad connection or switch. Note that the headlight switches on some Barths are not really designed for the loads the boundary and nav lights impose. For connections, start with the grounds and work your way back through the headlight connections and then the supply wires. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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Thanks Rusty. The two regular headlights work ok but they all start to flicker when the brights are swithed on. Do you think it might be the dimmer switch on the column or the headlight switch on the dash? Also, I do not know how I would be able to trace all that wiring from behind the dash to the headlights. Jax 1990 32' Regency, Cummins 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | ||||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
Most Regencies have the 12V electric panel in the front driver's side compartment. I would guess the wires from the switch to the lamps go through that compartment. There should be a relay for the brights in that compartment, and it could be chattering - you could hear that. A mechanic's stethoscope would be a helpful aid. Essential for tracing wires is a tone generator like this. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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11/12 |
I finally got around to replacing the headlight switch on Ugly Betty. The 93 Regency uses the older GM switch. The NAPA part HL6554 Someone earlier posted trouble removing this switch. This is a picture of the bottom of the switch and shows the button to release the push/pull rod that operates the switch. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: The push/pull rod MUST be pulled to the full on position BEFORE depressing the release button. This allows the release mechanism to line up with the notch in the push/pull rod. Naturally, Barth didn't use a normal wiring system for the switch. The switch is designed to have one (1) hot wire suppling the switch. Barth used two hot wires. One for the headlights and another for all the other lights. It did take a while to figure out how it was wired. The second hot wire is actually attached to the post that would normally turn on the DOME light. Attached is a picture of the connections on my switch and it does work as it should. And as a note--- Lenny's electrician wired the switch----- 6 wires connected to the switch =====ALL RED. Nick | |||
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11/12 |
Ground wire for the dash lights if you need it. Nick | |||
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