My shower probably is the standard single hot/cold/volume control knob. Below is the spout with the diverter and flex hose with the spray head. The diverter needs to be replaced. At home it is just a matter of unscrewing the spout from a metalic fitting(usually copper).All my Barth plumbing is "tupperware" PVC I'm afraid of snapping off a 22 year old fitting with no visible way to fix it,short of replacing the entire shower stall.Has anyone successfully made this repair??

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The diverter needs to be replaced. Has anyone successfully made this repair??

Do you need to completely replace the diverter?

I don't know your situation, but on a previous SOB as well as my current Barth, I used Shoe Goo to permanently seal the diverter in the shower position, since we didn't use the tub, anyway.

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.....no visible way to fix it,short of replacing the entire shower stall.

FWIW, my Barth appears to have the hall plywood wall panel installed last, with no shower plumbing access provided. If I ever do serious work on mine, I will have to decide whether to remove all of the wall or just cut an access panel and reinstall with some sort of trim molding over the edges of the cut.

Making the cut will be a little tricky to avoid damaging the plumbing behind. Probably a very short blade on the saber saw or some sort of depth control.

Bill: The diverter pullup knob is a part of the spout. The stall shower is against the outside wall with the vanity on the wall in the "room". Removing the medicine cabinet won't do any good...

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Originally posted by carlflack:
Bill: The diverter pullup knob is a part of the spout.

So was the one on my SOB and the current Barth. I held the pullup knob full up for gluing with a bungee and applied Shoe Goo or epoxy around the area where it entered the spout to make sure it would always be in that position. I then unscrewed the outlet at the end of the spout, removed the screen and replaced it with a stainless steel disk, sealed it up and reassembled.

The result is that all the water goes through the shower all the time.

Hi Carl,.....I'm with bill h on this one....In five years we've never used the tub as a tub - just a shower base. (I'd be afraid that trying to get back up might involve a Coach-Net call

But I'm wondering, for us need-to-winterize types, would plugging the spout have potential for trapping enough water to cause problems?

At some future point, I'll probably have to tear into the plumbing wall to address the ill-fated Qest plumbing...That's when I'll install a showerhead-only control valve and do away with the tub spout entirely.......

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Originally posted by Lee:
for us need-to-winterize types, would plugging the spout have potential for trapping enough water to cause problems?

....

My preferred winterization drill is compressed air first, then pink anti-freeze. I do a couple of compressed air blowouts with time in between for any water residue to run down again. Then the pink stuff. It worked for me with the set up I described, but was tested only down to the teens at night.

Perhaps more Arctic Barthers could comment further.

If you get pink antifreeze through the shower head with everything else plugged up, you shouldn't have problems unless it gets cold enough to freeze the pink stuff.

I abandoned the compressed air in favor of shop vac. First I suck the lines dry with the vac then use an inlet near the water tank as a pink supply, duct tape, excuse me, DUCT TAPE, clear 1" tubing about 1' long to the vac hose. Starting with the farthest outlet I vac untill I see pink, close that valve and keep moving closer to the source bottle. After all is completed I vac the system again.
Hot water tank is bypassed and never pinked, only sucked dry.
Tim

The continuing saga goes on. Since the shower is the least important, I'm not taking a chance on un- screwing the spout(containing the diverter)and possibly breaking a PVC pipe in the wall. We agreed to replace the leaky on/off valve, still being able to fill a pail with water for cleaning purposes. Went to Lowes only to find out the original valve is made for RV use,not home installation. Went to local RV dealer and parts manager confirned statement. However,due to not knowing the make and the age, the catalogs were of no help. The parts dept. is going to try and find a match(hopefully).As a last resort I'll replace the "O"rings and hope. Unless anyone knows whch make of faucets Mr. Barth used in 1988 I'm stuck...Will let you know the results.....

We too have an '88 Barth (Regency) and we need to deal with the same issue. Let us know if you find a solution.

We think the valve is a Deltex(former Delta).
So far Carl has replaced the two O rings and the two spings and the rubber seats.This allows the valve to stop leaking but the water pressure is still restricted.He thinks if the water pressure is adquate the verter would stay in place.As of now the only solution appears to be a complete valve body replacement.Due to limited space this could be next to impossible..........Betty ... Will keep you posted

I’m not sure what the setup on your coach is, but my shower faucet can be viewed, and accessed from an opening in the back of the wall in area under my stove. The tub/shower faucet is an RV style, and is available at most RV supply sources. The plumbing system on my coach is (was) the typical gray stuff. Repair and replace stuff available at most ‘mobile home’ and old-fashioned hardware stores. I have replaced about half of mine with the new style PEX plumbing and brass fittings. This is available in limited selection from Home Depot, but a complete selection from a plumbing supply houses. There are even adapters that go from the old style to new style. The only issue is the need for a ‘crimper’.
Here are some pictures of some of the stuff I’ve done.


Water heater bypass.

Fresh Water pump before.

Fresh Water pump and expansion tank after, top view.

Fresh Water pump after, side view.

Crimper.

I think the problem is solved. After disasembling the faucet valve three times and then taking a picture of the interior of the valve body.the reflection of the flash(camera)showed two well worn rubber seats. Lowes had "Seats & Springs for DELTA/PEERLESS".Cost $3.12 + tax. After installing the seats and the new "O"rings the leaking problem was solved. The diverter problem requires more pressure to remain in the up position or a spring type clothes pin. I'm satisfied with no leaks. Hope this helps. This was all accomplished from the front of the valve..........