My five gallon order of Liquid Roof arrived today. I guess if the weather cooperates it will be this weekend's chore. My plan is to scrub it clean on Saturday and apply the coating on Sunday.

If I use a bleach, TSP and water solution to scrub the roof, will I have a problem with it seeping into my awnings and bleaching them in spots?

I would really appreciate any advice that those of you familiar with this process would have. Bill H, Duteman and KCrusty, I read your posts and know you have some experience here. I have never used this product, but imagine it will be thick and plan to apply it around the roof protrusions with a brush and roll the open areas.

I'm a little concerned about getting it under the AC units since they flair out above the hole in the roof and there is only between 1/2 and 3/4 of an inch between the flair and the roof. It goes back in up to two inches, which will make it difficult to get roof coating into that area. Has anyone dealt with this? I have a 92, 36 ft. Regency.

Bill G

[This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited October 04, 2004).]

Bill, I would consider NOT flooding with TSP, but the using of a TSP soaked rag, and dry rag right behind the wet one. I just used this product, and it worked great, but if you are in an area where tree leaves or trash can fall on same I would warn you that since the product cures slowly you should keep this in mind. My roof being a 1991 may be alittle different, the main roof itself has a thin coating with a abrasive such as sand added to give traction rather a thick coating like Liquid Rubber. I found with mine the Liquid roof was used only around the air and vent joints and seams. Since the roof is mostly one piece I questioned the need to coat the entire roof with the rubber coating, yours may be quite different though. I found it easy to use, and of course considered the POT life.

I'm with Dale on that. I have only used LR on specific areas, rather than the whole roof. Good stuff. I used MEK for cleanup, but that might be a little much for the whole roof.

quote:

Originally posted by DALE SMITH:
Bill G. I sealed all seams and joints, and since I had not used the product before I measured out only a quart and found that such did all seams. I used a small semi-stiff tooth brush type brush to clean down in any cracks or splits, and with my air tank blew out the dust etc. If you do only the seams and joints you might like to put down some masking tape to define the areas and give it a clean professional look. I wish you well. Dale

PS. If you do tape be sure to remove tape before it has a chance to cure as it will stick to the tape and pull off the roof surface too.

I found that I had a gallon+ left over - guess I applied it too thin, Was not difficult to do - I powered washed the top, let it dry and went for it. Stored the remander in the freezer as directed - We'l see if that works..

Good luck

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Russell and Donna
1988 33' Barth Regal
Gibson Exhaust, Bilsteins, ipd sway bar

It's fantastic stuff....you'll be glad you used it, AFTER you're finished with the job!

Being two-part, it's obviously important to get a good mix.....For that you'll want a long shafted paint mixer paddle and a commercial/industrial grade drill - 1/2" geared is best....Consumer grade 3/8 drills won't hack it...I learned the hard way about halfway through the mixing when I smoked mine and had to run around and break into my neighbor's shed to retrieve my heavy drill.......

rollers, heavy brushes, squeegees, drywall taping knives, etc are all tools that will come in handy...none work well by themselves but all come into play sooner or later....Remember, you're installing a rubber "membrane" and not a paint "coating" so don't roll it out too far. It sets-up chemically, not by air drying, so it'll set-up regardless of thickness (thicker just takes longer...)

Several sources I checked suggested to go for about 20mil - about the thickness of a vinyl pool liner, with extra over the seams.

Oh,..... and wear nothing that you want to keep!

Good luck!

Well the job is nearly done. I completely coated the roof. I purchased 5 gal. of Liquid Roof from JNK Products for $319 including shipping to do the roof on my 36 foot Regency. I had to help my daughter at her house in the morning so didn't start on the roof until 1:30 PM (poor planning). I masked out around the entire roof and then mixed the Liquid Roof and catalyst. I used a 1/2 drill that is geared fairly low and a commercial paddle mixer chucked to the drill. If you plan on doing this to your roof, pay attention. First of all, mixing a five gallon pail of the Liquid roof requires a powerful drill. I am sure you could mix by hand, but this stuff is really THICK and will be a major work out to mix by hand. My drill and the two bladed paddle mixer worked great. I mixed for about five minutes and then went to work. The way I started was to buy a plastic paint pail and 3" nylon brush and cut out all the protrusions in the roof. There were a lot of protrusions. Since I didn't start until about 2:00 with the actual coating process, I got a bit nervous and enlisted both my wife and my son to help with the cutting. It is getting dark here now by about 6:30 now and I was concerned because this stuff is really THICK and slow to apply. With the three of us working, it went quite quickly and I had plenty of time to do the open areas. I had originally planned on using a roller to coat the open flat areas, but once I started, I realized that this stuff is too thick to roll on. Fortunately I had purchased an 18" squeegee at Home Depot to seal my driveway a few weeks ago and decided to try it. It worked great, I just poured some liquid on the roof and squeegeed it around. I used most of the five gallons, but probably would have just made it with the four gallon batch. This stuff is somewhat difficult to apply because it is so thick and requires a dedicated effort. I completed the job in about four and 1/2 hours and then spent about 45 minutes cleaning up. I used nearly 3/4 of a gallon of paint thinner to clean the drill and other implements. I tossed the paint pots and brushes as well as the squeegee. I soaked the paddle mixer in a large coffee can filled with paint thinner until I was done with the roof. This helped as the Liquid Roof dissolved by that time and cleaned off easily.

In this process, I got a fair amount on me and so did my wife and son. Paint thinner on a cloth cleaned it off easily. It was a good idea to mask off the edge of the roof with a three inch wide brown paper mask which is sticky along one edge. I used the blue painters masking tape about every four feet on the outside edge to keep the wind from lifting it. Since it will be cool here tonight, I don't expect it to cure completely by tomorrow morning. I think it will be a good time to remove the masking paper. The coating should have set up somewhat and should enable the removal of the masking paper easy. As we cut the edges, it definitely lapped onto the masking paper.

This new roof coating is much smoother than the original Anvil coating on the Barth. The anvil coating lasted a long time. The previous owner did coat the roof once and I think he used Kool Seal. The roof was in fairly good condition, but there were spots hear and there that were getting a bit thin.

The temp here today was about 65 degrees and partly cloudy. It was a a perfect working temperature. However, this temp will slow the curing time of the Liquid Roof. Not really a problem, except for the leaves dropping onto the uncured roof, which there are many.

The roof came out great and should be very durable for a long time, I hope. This is a labor intensive job and requires dedicated effort. Since it is not yet completely cured and the masking is not yet removed I will report again in a few days.

Bill G

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Bill & Georgene Goodwin
92 Regency 36ft
300hp Cummins
Gillig Chassis




[This message has been edited by goodwinw (edited October 10, 2004).]

Glad you had a successful Coating Party !! It's hard to describe the viscosity, other than "too thick to drink and too thin to plow......"

....You mentioned $319 fron JNK...As an alternative, others contemplating this project may want to check out: www.proguardcoatings.com

They're the mfg of Liquid Roof & Liquid Rubber. They sell L. Roof only thru retail outlets, but L. Rubber is available factory-direct. Specs sheets show them to be extremely similar. (Maybe someone more chemically astute could check it out & comment...?)

For 5 gal kit, I paid $203 plus about $30 for UPS for about 350 mile trip....got it in two days...Nice folks to work with.....

quote:

Originally posted by Lee:

Specs sheets show them to be extremely similar. (Maybe someone more chemically astute could check it out & comment...?)

Someone at the manufacturer told me over the phone they were the same product.

THAT'S what I was told too, Bill.....but years ago I was also told by the dealer that my new '73 Winnie was "built like a Barth". Glad to have your observation.....

Actually, the specs on the website show a slight difference in % of solids, but I can't believe it's enough to make a difference in useful life...maybe it's so one of them can go thru a sprayer better for commercial/industrial roof work....

quote:

Originally posted by Lee:
years ago I was also told by the dealer that my new '73 Winnie was "built like a Barth".

GOL-LEEEEEEEEEEE! If you can't believe your RV dealer, who CAN you believe?

Bill h. WHAT'S UP WITH YOU? Your sense of HUMOR has come to LIFE. Glad to see such, as in the past it was like reading the DICTIONARY when we read your posts. GOOD FOR YOU MY FRIEND. WHY, you have even changed the subject now and then, and WE ALL KNOW HOW DAVE LOVES THAT.

Come on Dale, your post didn't have "Liquid...Roof...Week...or End..in it.

Let's keep on track here. You didn't even have the word "this" in it....

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But I did drop a couple names so members would think I am IMPORTANT in that I claim to know YOU DAVE and alittle about Bill h. That should count for SOMETHING.

Finally cured! (Was it sick?)

We here is an up date. The job was completed on Sunday and it is now Wednesday. The roof was still a bit tacky yesterday, Temp is a factor in the curing process and temps around 70 or above are needed. Today it finally warmed to about 70 degrees. I put some heat on in the coach this morning to help warm the roof. With warmth inside and out, the curing proceeded and the roof is no longer tacky. This is a good thing as I now have a wonderful collection of fall leaves attached to the roof.

This is a really good coating material but challenging to apply.

Now Dale are you sure you're not in the will? There will certainly be enough $$ to share. Since my first car was a Studebaker, I'm checking out the 1931 Studebaker Model 54 Roadster. She is sweet.