I have had a problem for quite a while where when I step on the brakes I have a momentary pull to the left. I have spent over $500.00 on a grake job, new rotors and everything and it still does it. After the momentary jerk it seems to be OK. But then when I release my foot off of the brakes it jerks to the right.

Any thoughts??

How about your rear drums? A leaky rear seal that oils up the shoes on one side will cause something like that, too, when rear braking is uneven side-to-side.

Find a gravel road and brake hard and see which wheel is grabbing or not. The marks in the road will tell you.

Another thought:

After driving on a straight road, feel the brakes for temperature. If one is hotter or cooler than its opposite that information will help your mechanic track it down. A Raytek laser heat sensor is a fun thing to have. Also good for quickie tire checks on the road. Are the calipers free and are the guide pins lubed with the right stuff?

Does this happen right away with cold brakes or later?

Thanks guys, yes it happens right away. After a got an entire brake job from Dowecheatemandhow garage, I had a problem with the left front caliper sticking for about 100 feet after a stop but I still had the left jerk at stop. After going back and pay another $100 or so I just have the present problem.

Now here in Minnesota when we are driving through the country when we come up on a small town you have a "reduced speed" area. When I first slow down from 55 to let's say 45 I have the left jerk then the right jerk (sounds political) after I slow down. Now if I have to come to a stop in the town things are pretty good. In other words after stomping on the brakes a few times like in town it doesn't seem so bad.

[This message has been edited by davebowers (edited July 02, 2003).]

Sounds like you have a (still) sticking caliper to me...

Dave,
I had a similar problem and it was a sticking caliper. A rebuilt caliper was all it took. Went ahead and put on new right and left breaklines at the same time as new calipers on both sides. The break lines (about $50.00 each) were more expensive than the calipers (about $15.00 each).

Check your suspension. A broken leaf spring, worn spring hangers, worn bushings, etc. will cause the same type of problem. If your axle shifts it will give a dog tracking problem that will make you turn your wheel to keep it straight. This will make you think the brakes are pulling.

Good luck.

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http://www.truckroadservice.com/

[This message has been edited by Bill (edited July 06, 2003).]

I CAN'T WAIT TO HEAR WHAT SOLVED THIS ISSUE. I HAD A VW THAT WOULD QUIT AFTER IT GOT HOT. NO ONE HAD AN ANSWER. VW STARTED HAVING A BUNCH OF COMPLAINTS, AND FINALLY THEY FOUND IT WAS ON ONLY THOSE WITH NEW FUEL PUMP ROD. SEEMS THE ROD WAS A BIT TO FAT, AND WHEN HOT WOULD STICK TO GUIDE HOLDING THE PUMP HANDLE UP AND AWAY FROM THE CAM THUS STOPPING THE PUMPING ACTION. WOW. NEVER THOUGHT IT WOULD END. THEY DON'T ALWAYS 'wave a flag when they get ready to quit do they?"

Well this one may be a while till I find out. I just know it's going to be another big bill.

Replace both front flexible portions of the brake lines.

Changing the hoses is always a good idea on an older vehicle.

Do the gravel road and heat checks. Then, whatever you have done, replace the hoses anyway, as they are getting old, and could let you down at the wrong time. I had a bit of trouble getting the right ones and had to grind a bit to get them to fit, so allow some time.

The inside of the old flex-hose eventually start to rust and flakes of metal impead the pressure in stange and mysterious ways. Usually; if the cailper won't release until you either release the presure from the blead screw or unfasten the line it's the flex line thats going/gone bad but I've seen it work both ways intermitently. You can buy them at NAPA for about $20. each