1974 Barth Class C on Chevy G30 chassis. The propane tank is a Manchester B83451 and no longer made. The shut off valve leaks and there are no replacement shut off valves available from Manchester due to out of date/spec/certification requirements. They do have a tank that is the same size, 12"X28". Original tank was welded on by Barth to attach to the frame and that is now illegal. The only bracket they have is on the top.
In addition, since the tank is 44 years old and not certified, no propane filling station that is worth their salt will touch it. I thought about mounting two 20# bottles on the rear, but have discovered that there are more DOT regulations on that. You basically have to build a frame around them that would withstand impact. Anyone have any ideas?

I didn't think a house tank had spec rating on it like portable tanks do? Is the shut off valve replaceable with a valve from another model? Mine leaks when not turned on all the way but of course it was full when I got it and haven't found anyone willing to suck out the propane. Have a valve to replace it but it is a really big tank, still saying full after 50 days of use this summer.

All propane valves should always be entirely on or off. Never turn a propane valve on just a half a turn or so.

From what I've learned, ASME certified tanks do not have to be inspected on a set schedule. Their certification is for the life of the tank. DOT tanks have to be re-certified, I think every 5 years. Since my shut off valve leaks, mine can't be re-certified. And from what I can see, never was in it's 44 years of existence. Just another caution for anyone buying an older RV. New tanks are rather expensive.

jim let me check tomorrow. I took the tank out of my 72 Barth. I am thinking it will be 2 big. I have it hooked to the grill using the 1/2 tank of propane. Waste not! Older than yours but i was impressed with it. Looks a lot newer. Looked to be original. Stay tuned.

www.certifiedcyl.com

Check with this people, they are in Crossville TN, not far from you

Just to clarify what I've said, the shut off valve leaks, but not to the outside air. As long as you make sure all appliances are off, there is no propane being leaked into the air. The appliances essentially serve as the shut off. The main problem is that the thing is not certified, so propane filling stations won't fill it. Plus, as long as the valve is leaking, you can't do a RVIA leak test. System is supposed to hold 5 bars of water for 3 minutes or something like that. Manchester says they don't have a replacement valve but I'm going to call their engineering department today and see why I just couldn't use a newer version.

Not talking about Manchester Tank (I know they are in Crossville too). That place I recommend refurbishes all kind of propane tanks. Read their website.

Jim I measured my tank 42 long. sorry not a replacement for you.

Thanks anyway, Dana.

Jim , I was certified to fill propane when I work camped a few years ago. The propane company said the portable tanks needed to be cert (less than 7yrs old) or recert(5 years from date. OR installed in a motorhome (no dates) they said if we were not comfortable we did not have to fill the tank but as long as it did not have major rust issues or holes we could fill any age tank. In other words, get out the rustoleum, paint the tank and put a second shut-off down stream.
Have fun

Wayne

Bingo.

This is not rocket science. Clean up the tank well (sand blast is ideal) check for rust pitting and seam integrity. Paint it well and fill it up.

The "inspection" required for LP containers is not the rigorous hydrostatic pressure testing used in industrial and scuba tanks, rather a "general inspection" for overall condition and obvious leaks. These are only rated 150 psi or so.

My propane guy will look at them and fills almost all without a problem. Shop round.

Have determined that this is an ASME rated tank and is in good shape. Will clean it up a little and use it. The only appliance that doesn't have an automatic cut off is the stove and all you have to do is make sure it is turned off and you'll lose no propane. After some regular use, the shut off valve may well fix itself.

quote:

Originally posted by Kevin:
All propane valves should always be entirely on or off. Never turn a propane valve on just a half a turn or so.

True but pretty sure you shouldn't hear hissing and smell gas while turning it even if you don't bend down to turn it. LOL

Fortunately, that is not the situation with me. When you turn the shut off valve to 'off' a small amount of propane leaks past it. Probably will heal itself with regular use.