My dash gauges and screen monitor kick off and on driving down the road. It also kicks off the cruise control, controlled on the dash. I cleaned up the battery cables and tighten them down and checked other areas and cannot figure out why this is happening. The head lights are working fine because they are powered off a relay. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I believe there is another relay used to power the dash cluster. One of our DP guys might have had this and give you the specific location.

Fred,

Steve (L78Steve) will know the answer. He is the electrical genius. He purchased the California Barth from Carol on the site.

Back in the battery compartment are a bank of auto re-set breakers. They are round in shape. Its common for them to go bad after 25 years.
Disconnect them one at a time with the key on and gauge's on until you find the one that cuts power to the gauge panel.
Be careful with grounding hot leads.

I have been wrestling with a similar problem: when turning right the coach leans left and the gauges go to zero. When turning left or running straight they function normally. I have not found anything that moves on the coach when turning and no wires are near the Pitman arm or steering box. No fuses blow and everything returns to normal as soon as the coach returns to level. Been chasing wires through the chassis, frame rails, master electrical panel without luck. Ran the coach with a multimeter hooked to the 12v feed and it definitly drops out. Best guess is a broken 12v wire that is being stretched apart when the coach leans left. Driving me crazy but does not seem to affect anything else. My cruise is on the steering wheel and the horns work fine.

Could it also be a bad ground ?? Bob

The multimeter was connected to the hot side and it drops to zero. Even if a ground was bad the meter provides its own ground so 12v should still be detectable.

Where is the meter grounded ?... If to a bus bar, perhaps the ground to the bus bar is at fault...my breakaway has a mess of self- reset circuit breakers and a few relays/contactors that control various circuits...and a couple massive bars that have screws that can/have come loose of years of vibration...
Move the meter leads closer to the power source until it reads normal and work your way towards the gauges...good luck... I'll search on my bus and see if any thing looks like it could be your problem...it's simple to fix, but aggravating to find..you have two choices...either power or ground...

Ground was the chassis steel and the meter was at the crazy bundle of red wires that were all twisted together to provide B+ to the gauges, the warning light bulbs on the 10 light bar, and dash lighting. The tracing is what is difficult as it works unless the coach is leaning over and that is not easy to make happen. The Gillig wiring has so many unused wires that were associated with the bus version that sorting them out is a chore. Thanks for the advice, I plan on another safari into it after we return from the Indy 500 in June.

I believe I may have solved my problem with the dash instruments by replacing my battery terminals with new ones. I just completed a 100 mile trip and everything worked fine.