I'm heading up to the Barth tomorrow morning to get her started. I plan to first turn the engine over hand to make sure nothing is seized up or binding.

1986 Chevy 454 7.4L

What is the best way to turn the engine over by hand? Directly at the flywheel? If so, what size socket do I need for that?

I'm bringing all my sockets, 3/8" and 1/2" drive, regular and deep well, but don't want to get up there and not have the right one.

Also, is it necessary to take the belts off before turning it over by hand?

Thanks guys
-I'll have lots of pictures when I come back!

quote:

Originally posted by Curtis H.:
I plan to first turn the engine over hand to make sure nothing is seized up or binding.

1986 Chevy 454 7.4L

What is the best way to turn the engine over by hand?

Directly at the flywheel?

Yes.

Best is a flywheel turning tool, available at decent auto parts stores. It grabs the teeth of the ring gear, and you pull. A cheaper (although slower) way is to use a large screwdriver and pry on every other tooth or so, using the bell housing as a fulcrum. Either way, you will have to remove the sheet metal shield at the lower half of the bell housing.

quote:

Also, is it necessary to take the belts off before turning it over by hand?

No. But, if it doesn't turn easily and quietly, I would loosen belts one at a time. And, with unknown history, new belts would be a good idea. Keep the old ones as spares and number references.

One other thing, if you have an AIR pump, (or two) check them for free turning. They are notorious for freezing their vanes when sitting.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
One other thing, if you have an AIR pump, (or two) check them for free turning. They are notorious for freezing their vanes when sitting.

What do you mean an AIR pump and how do I know if I have one?

>What do you mean an AIR pump and how do I know if I have one?

The AIR pump is a belt driven accessory which provides a flow of air to the exhaust manifolds to allow any unburned hydrocarbons to burn more.

>1986 Chevy 454 7.4L
With this description, it is certain that you have 1 if it is an early 1986, and you have 2 if you have a late 1986.

I have the late 1986. There are hoses routed from ports on the air cleaner assembly to the pumps.

Perhaps others here can review the merits of removing the spark plugs prior to turning the engine over by hand.

Matt

quote:

Originally posted by BarthBluesmobile:

Perhaps others here can review the merits of removing the spark plugs prior to turning the engine over by hand.

Matt

It's easier with them out, but you get a feel that will help detect a soft cylinder with them in. And, sometimes you can listen for a leak, like an intake valve through the intake.

It's kind of just personal preference.

If you want to be very protective of your 454 during a start-up after a long period of inactivity, you might want to consider "priming the pump" and driving oil around the main bearings, the pushrods, the rockers, and lifters.

You'd take out the distributor (being careful to get to #1 firing position by the pointer of the rotor - don't rely on the harmonic balancer indicator, you could be out of phase ). Then use an oil pump priming shaft (speed shops have these) attached to a power drill (bigger the better) running clockwise. You'll see the PSI register if you have a gauge. I've also heard of guys taking old HEI distributors, removing the drive gear, and using that. That has the additional advantage of protecting against debris from falling in the manifold hole where the distributor goes. If you have a good hardened steel priming shaft, and a drill chuck made from good hardened steel also, you shouldn't have to worry about small metal chips from falling in.

Matt