quote:

Originally posted by lenny and judy:
bill what do you mean a really old mechanic.

It seems that only really old mechanics know how to interpret vacuum gauges, Allen scopes, etc.

There is no reason why a younger one can't, but it seem to be lost to younger mechanics.

More research indicates that the B series engines had a two piece pulley on the crankshaft. I know you say you don't have a harmonic balancer but you really do - all engines have them in one form or another. If the rubber bushing between the inner and outer rings of the pulley goes bad the engine will be vibrating at every rpm except the natural harmonic. You can do one of two things: remove the pulley and replace or remove the belts and see if you can move the outer part of the pulley without moving he inside part. If so replace the pulley. Here is a discussion of the procedure involved:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.c...opic.php?f=2&t=23370

It is funny how easy it was to get 1 hsp out of 1 inch displacement now can't get anything right . I must be really old . In 1962 had the first grand prix only did 110 in 13 seconds .clutch, pressure plate, through out Bering, fly wheel cost $55.00.A WEEKS TIME IF YOU WORKED FOR $1.00 A HOUR And 15 hours overtime now I know really old
LENNY

Tom, this Volvo does have a two-piece pulley. It's the way they tightened the belt to the power steering pump. In between the two halves of the pulley are shims and you either add or remove shims to tighten/loosen the belt. I'll look into this since I don't recall a rubber piece in the assembley. Thanks
Jim

Jim: I am talking about the lowest pulley on the crankshaft not an accessory. It is mounted directly on the crankshaft, dead center at the lowest point of the front of the engine. By two piece I mean it has a inside section and the outside part where the timing marks are. This does not have a pulley groove on it but a grooved pulley is bolted to it, usually inside the center of the heavier one. The two piece is not noticeable until it is removed and then one can see a rubber bushing between the inner and outer parts. The rubber can go soft and allow the outer part to vibrate around the centerline of the crankshaft, causing a vibration as it moves. It will be apparent at lower rpm and when moving at a constant speed. I have had that on Fords as well. I doubt a true sandwich pulley that drives a belt will cause your problem, unless some pieces of the belt have broken off - and you have already changed them. If it persists bring it to Breaux Bridge in May and between the crowd of us we can find and fix it.

I hope this is not something you have already seen. I did see your posts on the Volvo forums. So here goes: http://www.swedishbricks.com/7...t_Seals_Tensioner_PM

There are links in this article to other parts of the B23 engine. Best wishes.

I have emailed you the phone # of a good mechanic, old and experienced. When I asked him about your problem he also pointed out that rubber piece.

I know I'm late on this one. You said you put a new exhaust on this car. was this because of the vibration? I'm assuming not. I have had a vibration on my 240's due to exhaust/tailpipe clearance on the underside of the car and aft airdam. Exhaust hanger off? When you check it have someone sit in the car so it has weight in it the way you drive it.

scott

Tom, I must be a little brain dead. Our engine is a B21, not a B23. Do you know if the B21 has the same inner rubber part that you spoke of? I'll check tomorrow.

Scott, we replaced the exhaust system from the cat back with an IPD system that incorporates a turbo muffler but no resonator and is 2 1/4" dia. We did so to improve performance. The vibration was there before and after the new system. All the hangers and straps appear to line up correctly. When you say 'air dam' what are you referring to? Thanks
Jim

Tom, I checked the crank pulley assembly, and it does not have the set up you mentioned. There are actually two pulleys. The first one is the split pulley that operates the A/C compressor and the power steering pump. The second pulley, behind the first, is actually a double pulley operating two belts to the alternator. Thanks for your help tho. I removed all the belts and replaced the timing belt tensioner and still have the vibration. But in the process discovered some distributor/vacuum problems. After I fix those, perhaps the engine vibration will go away. Again, many thanks

Jim, Where the tailpipe comes out the back, volvo has that plastic shroud. I've had hangers or a tail pipe broken, and the tailpipe hits or vibrates on the plastic cutout. Also, I've had hangers off or pipes get out of alignment from my kids getting high center on something.
Then they'll say that they feel a vibration.
I've found that the vibrations sometimes get louder from the pipe, muffler hitting the tunnel in the floor when people (or extra weight) are in the car. If you have a friend with a lift or don't mind crawling around you can put someone in the car to feel the vibration and grab the pipe w/gloves. You can push and pull in different spots to see if you can change the sound or effect. That goes for other areas such as mounts and accessories too. If you can change the vibration or sound, you're in the right spot.
This is all stuff you probably know but it's worth mentioning. Also, I run my belts a little loose (due too an alt. failure caused by me tightening my belts that extra bit).
With the loose belts I get a little more noise and vib in the engine.
Other than that Autozone has a stethescope that you can use to stick on bearings, or on accessories and listen for bearing failure.
I think someone earlier mentioned this.
Hope this helps! Hope you and Tere have a nice Thanksgiving!

OK, we are not being much help and you are certainly doing everything you can so here is one more recommendation. Chattanooga Truck Center has a dyno that should be easily available for a Volvo.. If it vibrates on the dyno they can find it. I would call them before changing anything else

That's a great idea, Tom. And Scott, thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to follow up on all of them. After replacing the distributor (it was sort of coming apart), putting all the vacuum hoses where they should be(they were completely screwed up, to the point that there was no vacuum at the vacuum advance for the distributor), the car runs much better and the vibration is essentially gone at low speeds. But you can still feel it at highway cruising speed. Chatanooga is only 60 miles away and if they can pinpoint the source, it will be worth it. Thanks, all.
Jim