Have any p-30 owners out there had experience with this suspension add-on?

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-wheel-covers/firestone-ride-rite.htm

We occasionally push-the-envelope regarding payloads and we're wondering if this add-on might assist the "getting tired" '70's era leaf springs. (Had them re-arched, but it didn't quite do the job....)

Lee,
Yes, We put a kit like that on our old Class C SOB. They worked so good I took them off and kept them to use on something else in the future, when we traded the SOB in on our Barth. Our Barth's tag axle has airbags very similar to these. Highly recomended!
Cheers, John

Our '90 33' Regal SE on a P30 with a tag, has factory air bags on the tag, and Firestone Ride Rites on the driving wheels, as well as the standard P-30 airbags up front.

We're well- within factory load limits in back, but right at them up front. The rig handles easier & better than our previous 24' Class A s.o.b., but I'm a belt & suspenders kind of guy, and I'm seriously thinking of adding a transverse leaf helper spring up front.

A locally fabricated track bar (panhard rod) made a world of difference in hangling our s.o.b., which not only had a single axle in back, but single tires as well.

If you have a single rear axle (no tag), the addition of a track bar & Ride Rites would probably make you think you have a new motorhome.

We didn't have a "hangling" problem with the s.o.b., it hangled very well. It was a "handling" problem. But don't ask me what "hangling" is, I really can't explain it. Probably relates in some way to double-male extension cords, and the "dark sucker" effect.

Lee I had them installed on my 25' at CW for about $225. a few years back. They helped a great deal,no rear end sag, can level side to side,front to back easily.Be careful of the routing of the lines, I put my valves in my generator bay. BRES

I have used a similar product made by Air Lift on Barth and previous P30 to bring the rear up to factory spec ride height. In an ideal world, I will have new leaves installed to allow the coach to sit level when empty, and the air bags will lift it to spec when fully loaded.

Roy is right on the Panhard rod. I made one using Ford urethane bushings for my last P30. the tag Barth seems to need it less. I don't know if that is because the chassis is the heavier version or because of the tag axle, but the need does not seem as urgent. I should also add that the addition of Bridgestone tires seem to make things a bit steadier.

However, any side sway stability issues would seem to be better addressed starting at the front.

Thanks to all for the feedback.....

Road handling is not an issue - I'm happy with the way the unit handles....Bilstein shocks, steering damper, re-bushed anti-sway bars, new drag link and no-bag Supercoils up front took care of that.....

With re-arched springs, the unit sits level & plumb empty. But loading 2-3 folks at the dinette, 2-3 on the couch and 50 gal. of fuel, all on the same side, does tend to give the unit a distinct list, and I'm sure it improperly loads the wheels....the older springs have no-doubt become more limber over the years (25 yrs-75k mi), so I'd think giving them a little help would solve the problem...I also like the idea of air support so I have some control, rather than just leaf additions, etc.

Are Ride-Rite units a reasonable DIY project? In the past I've pulled springs, bushed them, installed shocks, etc so I have "average" capabilities I'd guess......

Thanks again all - hoping to hear more!

Lee,
We hung a full sized motorcycle off the tow hitch. On the old sob, a Dodge 300 chassis. On a trip through ND's frost heave laden roads without them, we broke the front shocks... with them we never even knew the bike was there. I installed them with a "battery drill" in about an hour. It was pretty easy.

Ordered the Ride-Rite today...plan to install it myself......Now I'm having second thoughts about the "purpose" for installing the equipment in the first place, so I'm asking for feedback again.....

To achieve my goal of raising a sagging rear corner, I assume I'll have to have different pressures between the bags. (difference is about 1-1/2" in street-to-bumper height)....Will this differential in bag pressure add new complications to the suspension geometry, wheel loading, alignment, etc? I've got un-bagged Super Coils up front, so there's no ability the to counter-balance the differences in rear bag pressure needed to level the coach........

Maybe I should have gone with new leaf springs on both sides to start over....?

I've got myself confused....Help!

My ideal situation would be for the steel springs (and air bags with the lowest pressure) to allow the coach to sit level when loaded as lightly as you will drive it. Then let the air bags compensate for added load like water, cargo, extra people, hitch load, etc. Could a leaf be added to the low side?

Do you have the chart on ride height? Rear ride height affects caster.

Thanks Bill....You've confirmed my feeling that I'm using Ride Rite rear bags as a band-aid to correct a defect, rather than a suspension enhancement.....

I'm gonna have to rethink this...probably better to re-arch the limp leaf spring and then use bags to compensate for added loads, as you suggested

I don't have height chart....I assumed shooting for level & plumb was good enough....Can you or Dave supply this?

Thanks again.....

Lee, my chart is for 86 and earlier, as it was published in 86. It is likely that it will apply to later P30s, but can't say for sure, as I haven't compared.

What year is yours?

Hi Bill,

Mine is a '79 model year (actually a '78 chassis), so the info ought to be applicable.....And about two nano-seconds after my post, Dave sent me the info you had provided him. I swear, what a group!.......

To beat a dead horse a little, IF I simply re-arch a rear spring to get me back to plumb & level, install the Ride-Rites at minimum pressure (i.e.: zero impact) and THEN have the front end aligned, don't I accomplish the same thing as I would if I work towards an arbitrary height?

Obviously, I'm clueless when it comes to suspension geometry, but it seems that aligning to ANY existing condition would accomplish the end-goal....What am I not considering here?...........

You always want to have factory manual ride height when you are driving. That is why I like air bags, as they can compensate for various loading configurations. Once you get your ride height correct as measured per diagram, you can use a ruler or a custom cut stick on the bumper, fender cutout, vinyl trim strip or whatever.

It might be possible to compensate for your low side with the air bag on that side. Then see how it does with a max load. If the bag allows proper ride height in both instances, you might not want to bother with re-arching. I like the re-arching or new leaf, though, as an air bag or its plumbing can fail. It has happened to me several times with different venicles. Once, a tailpipe developed a tiny hole that blew EXACTLY on the plastic air line. So, the springs buy a little safety.

Once you get your rear ride height correct, get the front checked/aligned per specs in older post. Caster counts. You've already got the good coils up front, go for an IPD or Hellwig sway bar, too. And tapered roller bearing idler arm pivots. And, heck, go for a tru center or steer safe or safe t steer, too. And a faux leopard skin fur steering wheel cover, to finish it off.

I have spoken with several P30 owners who got rid of them because they didn't like the handling. They do respond to improvements. I wonder if they would have kept their P30 if they had made a few improvements.

Good Info All....Thanks Bill......

(The leopard skin steering wheel cover is sure gonna clash with the fuzzy dice on the rear view mirror, but what-the-heck....I'll try ANYTHING to get this suspension problem squared away......)