Bill, did you get it in OK?

Well, bill h. Good to see you are back!!!! More GREAT info will start flowing again. Hope you all had a great time. Dale

bill h, Not yet. Health, motivation and weather are not cooperating here in the Ozarks. Haven't had a chance to get into the parts store to get new wires either. Will let you know when it happens. Thanks, Bill

Dennis pretty much covered it, but I will add a few caveats, cavils and quibbles.

A meter is not good enough to tell you if you have a good 12 volt power lead. The meter does not load the circuit, so a resistance wire will show 12 volts. If you use a meter, load the circuit with a tail light bulb to be sure you have a non-resistance wire. My advice is to run a new wire from the ignition switch to the distributor. I would also suggest using the standard GM connector at the distributor. It is possible to shortcut and slip on a hardware store connector, but you will be inconvenienced later.

Check your new distributor for any red dust. If there is any, blow it out. Lube the advance mechanism lightly with motorcycle chain lube.

To set the engine at number EIGHT cylinder tdc, mark the distributor body to indicate the location of the number eight cable terminal. Remove the distributor cap on the old distributor and rotate the engine by jigging the starter switch until the rotor almost lines up with the mark. Then, have an assistant turn the starter slowly while you observe the timing mark from underneath. The engine should stop with the dampner mark on "0" and the rotor pointing to the #8 mark.

Mark the edge of the dist housing where the rotor points. Now remove the old distributor, noting how the shaft turns as you lift up on it. Mark the edge again where the rotor now points. Note how the tang on the bottom of the shaft aligns.

Mark the housing of the new distributor body to indicate #8 and #4 contacts, using the cap as a guide. Put a little assembly lube on the gear. Rotate the shaft of the new distributor so that the rotor points midway between #8 and #4 contacts. Check that the tang looks like it might align as the spiral gear teeth rotate the shaft as it goes down. It might take a couple of tries. Install the distributor and watch the rotor rotate to point to the number eight terminal. The number one and number eight terminals should be across the front.

Tighten the distributor bolt enough to hold it but still be able to move it. Now, retard the spark a bit by rotating the distributor clockwise a few degrees. A retarded engine is easier to fire up than an advanced one. Connect it up and fire it up. Rotate the distributor until it starts and idles easily. Then time it per the sticker or manual for your engine. Tighten the bolt. Later on, when it is warm again, time it the way Dennis says. That is best.

As for ignition wires, my preference is spiral core wire with straight nipples and Thermo Tech sleeves over them. Lube the inside of the plug nipples with silicone spray for easy removal. Pay particular attention to wire routing to avoid the possibility of crossfire between cylinders 5 and 7, and 4 and 8. These wires should not be too close to each other. The HEI wires will be fatter, so you might need new holders.



[This message has been edited by bill h (edited March 07, 2004).]

I have done what bill h. says, and it is much easier doing such than putting into words how to do it, and bill h. you did GOOD. For a year while in Chicago I wrote bulletins that went out to all of our Tractor Supply stores, and I can tell you it ain't easy to put in words what you are trying to say, or are thininking. My post is an example, not good, but I have noted several of you members do a great job. "KEEP IT UP", my friends. Dale

Thanks, Dale. I did a stint as a tech writer and instructor. Not as much fun as the hardware part.

Myself i'm kind of like Dave, mechanicaly challanged. made my head hurt!

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mike foster
83-35' regency 8.2 detroit towing 98 cherokee classic 4x4

Mission accomplished on the distributor changeover! Thanks everybody for your input. Haven't road tested it yet but it starts easily and runs smoothly sitting in the garage. Bill h; I got the spiral core wires from Accel and they included new wire holders. Do you have a source for the Thermo Tech sleeves? Couldn't find them locally....Bill

Bill, speed shops would be a good choice. I know there are many in CA. Dale

I can help you on the Thermo-Tec sleeves. Summit Racing or Jeg's Racing carry them. Summit can be reached online or you can order a catalog free 1-800-230-3030. They are on page 86 of the catalog. I bought the DEI brand 8" boots which cover most plug wires for $51.95.

In pre-timing light days a vacuum guage was used to measure manifold vacuum at idle speeds (below 1000 RPM). The distrubutor was advanced untill fastest idle speed was found. The gauge would normally read 17 to 20 inches of vacuum at 1000 RPM. Then the distributor was retarded untill the guage read 2 inches of vacuum less than the maxium reading and the engine should be idling around 750 RPM at that point. If during the process engine speed gets above 1000 RPM the distributor centrifical advance begins and setting will not be correct. With todays fuels you will probably be more likely better off with the timing a little retarded. Timing too far advanced will cause the engine to be hard to turn over, timing retarted too far will turn over easily and take several rotations to start.

Bill, glad to hear things went well. I use the Accel wires, too.

http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/14005/14005_part/14005_part.html

The most cost-effective way is to buy a 3 foot length 10410 and cut it to eight 4 1/2 inch lengths that slip over the nipples.

I got it from http://www.pawengineparts.com/

Their catalog is quite a resource.

Bill h. I couldn't order it from pawengineparts without their catalog and they said it takes 4-6 weeks to get one. But, I found the 3 foot length 10410 and ordered it from http://www.northernautoparts.com/Index.cfm
for $13.99 plus shipping.

I took the Barth out this morning for a highway test run for the first time since I changed over to the HEI ignition and I'm realy happy with the way it is running now. I don't know if the old distributor was just worn out, the points weren't set right or the timing wasn't right but there is a big difference in the way it performs now. Thanks again to everyone for your input.

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Bill & Diane
1973 25'
454 CID P-30 Chassis
German Shepard Dog

Hey, Bill, have you noticed any better mileage?

On another thread, Fred Weeks posted, " be prepared to keep tuning the ignition system if you want to keep it working well."

That would certainly apply to a Kettering point/type ignition. However, an HEI requires much less maintenance, and runs better. Mainly watch for the Red Death. (the red dust that will cause carbon tracking or module failure).