I'm looking for some advice on converting my 1973 454 engine's point-type distributor to an electronic system. I'm wondering if it is worth doing and if so, which is the best way to go. I've seen various kits advertised that say it is simply a matter of replacing the points and condenser with the new electronic components using the existing distributor. I have also heard you can replace the original distributor with a newer HEI model...just out with the old, in with the new. I'm thinking that would require different plug wires also. Any suggestions?

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I converted from HEI to MSD-multiple spark discharge. You can buy a complete electronic distributor from Summit Racing or Jeg's. I don't know that it makes that big of a performance advantage to go with MSD, but the step up from points to electronic distrib. is a big benefit from a mainenance standpoint.

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Eddie Chevalier
'85 Barth Regal 28' P-30 454
'91 Honda Accord/'87 Yamaha YSR 50 Toads

I changed from the orignal points dist to the later HEI type. I used a higher voltage racing coil. I had to changed to the correct plug wires that are used with the higher voltage. The gap for the spark plugs will have to opened up to take advantage of the higher voltage. Make sure that all the spark plug wires are not touching anything. That includes yourself when working around the engine when it is running. The voltage is so much hotter, you can really get a jolt out of it, trust me on that one. I think that the milage went up a little, but not too much. The engine starts better with the later dist. Most of the racing auto parts stores have everything you need in stock. It is not cheap.

Bill, you will be able to replace the complete distributor quite easily. The HEI will give you better starting, better cold weather warm up, better idling, and perhaps better mileage. You should replace the wires with new HEI type wires. My preference is a major brand spiral core. Put in new plugs gapped for HEI. I bought a used distributor for under $50. For safety, I like a new gear. I once had a used distributor eat the integral drive gear on a camshaft. It would be a good idea to carry a spare coil and module.

Eddie's suggestion on the MSD 6A box is a good one. I am a real believer in them. The improvement in a stock system is not as dramatic as with more modified engines, but there is usually still an imrovement. I use the MSD 6A box so I can spend even more money and use their adjustable timing dealie. It allows me to fine tune my timing for varying grades, temperatures, loads, octanes, etc. I use the MSD distributor on my boat, but would not recommend it for a motor home, as it does not have vacuum.

One more thing: the point-type distributor coil requires a dropping resistor or resistance wire to function properly. The distributor likes around 8 volts, and is dropped by the resistance wire or resistor. During starting, when the battery voltage is dropped to around nine volts by the load of cranking, the resistance is bypassed by the solenoid contact, and the full 9 volts goes to the coil to assure a hot spark. The HEI does not require this, as it is hot enough during starting to work fine.

The HEI requires full battery voltage, during both starting and running.

I put Pertronix on both my boat engines and it makes a world of difference. If you do it yourself it will be about $100, for the dist. change plus the coil. I have used the high performance wires all along due to the wetter potential of a bilge. The nice thing is no points to corrode. My boat was underpowered and I went from about 3500 rpm max with points to 3700 just by changing to the electronic ignition. A cruiser is even more of a challenge to attain top end than the gas powered road warriors. For more info go to yahoo groups CCCC and search pertronix.
Best of luck in the New Year
Tim

Here's another way to go:

http://cranecams.com/ignition/xri.htm

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I decided to go with a new HEI distributor and bought one off of Ebay complete with coil. Just got it yesterday. No instructions. "Don't need no stinkin' instructions" used to be my mantra, but it has been a long time since I messed around with distributors and sort of remember screwing up the timing in the distant past when I did, so I really would appreciate it if one of you who has done it would guide me through installing the new one.

Bill H will jump in here I hope, but I will tell you how I did mine. I put the number one cyclinder on TDC. That should have the rotor pointing to the one o'clock position on old dist. This is where the new one will be also. You may have in put the new dist. in and out a few times because of the teeth on the drive. I would put a mark on the dist with the cap on in the position of the right plug wire so when you put the dist in place it lines up with that mark. Sometimes the slot in the oil pump drive will get off a little and you can move it with a long slotted screw driver to line up the dist and the oil pump. One thing that you have to have for the new dist is a good solid 12 volts for the primary voltage source. After you get all the right type spark plug wires, the ends are different for the HEI and they are 8mm in size, you have to make sure that they are installed in the wire looms so they don't touch anything and go to ground. You can time it with a timming light, but I like to drive it and when you hear a little pinging on a hard pull you might retard it a little. I hope Bill H will also help us out here also

OK, thanks Dennis, that is pretty much the way I remember doing it long ago. I have also used that method of timing also in several vans I have owned in the past. I will have to pick up some new plug wires. Bill H, if you are following this, you mentioned changing the spark plug gap. Can you tell me what that should be? Also, am I understanding you correctly that I can't just use the positive wire that goes to the existing coil because it has a resistor built in? I think I know what you are talking about but I haven't had a chance to look at it closely. Can I eliminate the resistor and still use the same wire? Or will I need to run a new wire from the ignition?

Bill s. i don't know beans about your problem but Bill H. might be in quartzsite right now. i know he was going but i don't remember when!
an aside note, i notice you are in max creek,mo. i had a wonderful friend from max creek. his name was frank (jack) hill. passed about a year ago. he always told me when he died he was going to have engraved on his headstone "i tole-um i was sick". some day i'm comming down there just to see if he did. thanks for the memory.
wish i was competent enough to help with your install.
mike

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mike foster
83-35' regency 8.2 detroit towing 98 cherokee classic 4x4

Hi it's Dennis again. As far as the wire running for the primary voltage use a volt meter and check the voltage and see if you have 12 volts. On my rig the voltage was right at 12.5 without worring about the inline resistor. It's an easy check. More than likely you have 12 volts already. You more than likely will have to change the connector to fit to the distribitor. Mine was a spade connection. There were two connections. One is for the voltage supply and other was for the tach supply. I didn't have a tach so I didn't worry about it.

OK Dennis, I will check that. That will make it a pretty simple job if it is 12 volts.
Ironsides: Did you mean to spell your friend's town as Max Creek? This is Macks Creek. I don't know as many people around here as I should. I'm kind of a hermit most of the time. I did ask a friend who is one of the main characters in town (which is actually less than 300 souls but more in the surrounding country side) and he didn't recognize the name. Coincidentally, I have a friend who is always saying he wants his headstone to read "I told them my back was killing me!"

no Bill your way of spelling is correct. i noticed it after i posted and just got a case of lazyidus. hope your project is going well.
mike

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mike foster
83-35' regency 8.2 detroit towing 98 cherokee classic 4x4

Dennis, did you open your spark plug gap?

Bill, the book says for HEI ignition in a 454, the gap shoud be .045.