My steering seems sloppy and I was wondering if anyone has ever overhauled their steering box and had any advice and source for parts?

Mike

read this>>>

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2004/1...de-steering-and.html

Ours was really sloppy, so we had a rebuilt unit installed. Our breakaway had the number listed on the sheet attached to the generator access door.

Our former coach "THE TOY"had no steering box problems but rebuilding the front end made a 90% improvement.New shocks were installed at this time. We should have more attention to the weight situation................Carl

This place specializes in high performance steering. The owner of Xtreme Paint and Graphics, Nacogdoches, TX uses them.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com

The Saginaw (now Nexsteer) 710 is a common box on Breakaways.

I take exception to the RV Doctor's claim that weight distribution is a prime culprit. Water, waste, cargo, and propane weight add up, but compared to the dry weight of the typical motorhome, not so much; in any event, if the coach is properly set up, those factors would have minor effects.

By all standards, my 28' Breakaway with its ridiculously short (12' 2") wheelbase should be a squirrel, but it tracks like it's on rails.

Tire inflation, panhard rods, steering slack (especially kingpins), alignment, tire deterioration, and minor factors can contribute. Unfortunately, many times the solution is found by process of elimination, but start with a 4-wheel alignment; if that can't be held, track down the problem. Slack in the steering system is relatively easy to detect (although the cause may not be).

You may be able to simply adjust the play in the gears. There is an adjusting nut on the box. There is some discussion here:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f26...r-chassis-38826.html

Might save you the trouble and expense of removing and replacing.

Well stated, Rusty

When I had Complete Truck Repair to a complete chassis inspection of my Breakaway, one (of many) things they found was a steering issue. The steering gear box was no longer securely bolted to the frame. Prior to that that, the steering had been quite imprecise. DUH

Sloppy steering on my former '77 29 ft. Barth was very much improved by replacing a well worn bell crank.

Thanks for the input guys. I now have some idea where to start troubleshooting the sloppy steering issue.

Cheers,

Mike

On Breakaways the steering box is attached to the axle. There are no bell cranks on the Breakaway system.

From the steering wheel there is a drive shaft that goes down thru the floor to a right angle gear box. Then there is a long drive shaft that goes from that box to the steering gear box. This systems cuts down the chances of bump steer but you are turning a lot of things.

The first thing I would do is put a clamp at the steering gear box input shaft to prevent any movement at the steering gear box. Move the steering wheel to check for any slop in all those "U" joints and that right angle box. I did this and found there is a bit of slop in the steering wheel at the steering column. Tilt/extension columns can and do wear

After that check, I use a cheap laser pointer and tape is securely to the wheel (not the tire) pointing forward to a wall or some place you can see from inside the coach. Then turn the wheel a tiny amount left to right. Watching the laser pointer you can determine how much slop is in the steering box.

You will need to run the engine while doing the above test as the steering box needs to be powered. There is technical reason for that, inside the steering box there is a spring loaded valve system that opens when pressure is applied to the steering system (turning the wheel) to assist with moving the wheels. If the is a lot of movement with the steering wheel before the laser pointer moves (assuming the drive system has been checked) then that would be a good indication of the steering box needing attention.

I had my steering box rebuild because it developed a serious leak. That did not fix the handling problems.

The steering box on Breakaways is very hard to adjust correctly while mounted on the axle as the adjusting screw and nut is not accessible and I strongly suggest that the box be adjusted by a trained person. The correct procedure is to have the box EXACTLY set to the middle of it's turning range and then torque is measured as it is turned back and forth thru the middle. This can only be done with the steering box removed completely Playing with this if you don't know what you are doing will get things all messed up.

Ball joints on the system can be measured with a micrometer measuring across each joint while moving the wheel. Kingpins can be checked also but usually by an alignment shop that deals with heavy vehicles. I just turned 230K miles and I have the original ball joints and kingpins but they are lubricated every time before I leave on a journey.

I have found over the years that "toe" issues are a major contributor to wonder. Michelins require a different "toe" setting then Bridgestones. Check your tire wear, outside rib wear is an indication of excessive toe-in, conversely inside rib wear in an indication of excessive toe-out. Under inflation will cause outer ribs to wear much more rapidly and will also accelerate inside or outside wear due to toe in/out issues.

Tire pressure is another major problem area. Over-inflation will cause quite a bit of wonder, not so much with Michelins but a lot with Bridgestone.

Loading is another. The 30 foot Breakaway has a BIG over hang and a lot of weight behind the rear axle. In my set up, I have a lot more weight than Rusty does and mine does have the "tail wagging the dog" problem. Speed is another problem, Mine isn't too bad at 55 MPH but as I go 65 MPH or higher, the inertia is multiplied a lot and wonder is increased.

Another issue is the panhard rod over the rear axle as Rusty pointed out. This rod is supposed to keep the rear end from moving side to side, it is prone to wear. Breakaways with the Dana axle have a long rod and wears a bit better than coaches with the Eaton axle like mine. Check your frame where the panhard rod attaches, I had a cracked frame and OH BOY, was I sawing the wheel until fixed.

Long winded post but I hope this all helps

quote:

This can only be done with the steering box removed completely Playing with this if you don't know what you are doing will get things all messed up.

As Ed said, adjusting free-play torque is critical; it's how the internal clearances are set. Too tight, and the box will eat its internals. I learned this the hard way; I replaced the box on my van without checking the torque - it was set too tight, and it damaged the internals. Fortunately, it failed in the driveway... The replacement on that one also was set way too tight, but I checked it beforehand and set it to specs.

BTW, there is on mine a lower bracket on the Barth's steering box, eliminating any possibility of flex. I don't know if that was factory installed or done by a PO.

quote:

Another issue is the panhard rod over the rear axle as Rusty pointed out. This rod is supposed to keep the rear end from moving side to side, it is prone to wear.

I ordered new bushings from Spartan, and they sent me rubber ones, which wouldn't fit - because mine were solid and have zerk fittings on each end. Now they get greased along with the rest of the chassis.

Great information!! Thanks again.

Mike

This sounds like a (significant) project----- but it also sounds like you made it home. Good luck with it.
I also have a slight bit of slack, but as Ed indicates, there is a potential for wear in the gear above the steering box. I suspect this could be my source.

Regards
Bud