I still have the problem with my headlights so I replaced all four lamps. The dim lights work fine all the time, but when the brights are turned on... all four work fine for about 10 minutes then they all constantly go on-off (flicker). Then... when the brights are turned off.... the two dim lights work fine again. On a previous suggestion... I purchased a tone generator and tried tracing the wires to the lights. This is nearly impossible with the hundreds of wires flowing throught it and they all are red. I cannot say for sure... but it seems like something may be heating up somewhere to make the lights flicker after turning on the brights for about 10 minutes. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions?

Jax
1990 32' Regency, Cummins

My chassis uses a Buick Regal switch, and the load caused the original to burn out. This impelled me to install relays for the headlights and to drill holes in the new switch's housing for ventilation.

The relays increased the voltage under load by about 3V, and of course, brightened the headlights.

How-to, at least for my coach, is here.

Make the lights do the flicker routine, then check to see if the running lights also flicker. If they don't that pretty much rules out the switch.

Check the connectors on the headlights. If one is loose, it can heat up, and when it does it expands and worsens the connection.

Thanks Rusty! Great layout for instructions. Guess I have some work to do.

Jax
1990 32' Regency, Cummins

Mr Wizard strikes agian. What was his name Don Herbert? Iam getting old. All who wander are not lost.

Rusty
I checked all conections and tried the lights again. The lights still flicker after about 10 minutes. This time I checked the switch on the dash and it was very hot to the touch. Do you think the switch is the culprit? I also tried to remove the switch, but I cannot get the knob off. Is there a trip to getting it off? I'm scratching my head over that one.

Jax
1990 32 Foot Regency, Cummins, Spartan Chasis

I believe your coach has the old GM style switch. They have a thermal circuit breaker that cycles when the load is too high (or if the switch is shot, with a normal load). If you go with headlight relays, the switch sees very little load and may still be usable.

As I recall the switch knob and shaft must be removed, then the bezel can be unscrewed and the switch will come out.

To remove the knob and shaft you have to push a small release button on the side of the switch. While holding the release button down, pull the knob and shaft all the way out.

(Note that this will leave your lights on. Once the switch is out you can reinsert the shaft, unplug the switch, or just disconnect your engine battery cable to begin with.)

The shaft will push back in when you get the new switch installed. good luck

http://autorestoration101.com/...gm-headlight-switch/

Steve
Thanks for the tip. I got it off and replaced it with a new one from the local parts store. But... it still flickers when the brights are turned on. There is so much wiring in there and I cannot find a relay anywhere in the line. Guess I will have to do without bright lights.

Jax
1990 32' Regency, Cummins
Spartan Chasis

Question, did you replace the headlights with higher power lights? It sounds as if a thermal breaker in the headlight system is over loaded and cycling. All Barths are different on mine there are banks of thermal breakers in the electrical box located below my feet accessible from the outside My headlight breakers are located there.