I am running a 50 amp line from my garage to a "Midwest" four prong box on a post next to THE TOY. The prong openings are in a diamond shape,top is the ground, bottom is white neutral, left and right are red and black and can be either/or(no preference).After burying 70 feet of #4 wire under ground in conduit, but before energizing the box,(the plain copper wire and the white neutral wire were installed in the neutral bus bar), I inserted the 50 amp circuit breaker with NO wires attached. With the switch in the "on" position I used a test light from the circuit breaker to each of the awaiting red and black wires. Both times the light lit. Somehow I think this is wrong. Sure would like help in making me an electrician. The good news of the day, also installed a water line out to the pad (no leaks)and then blew it dry with my new air compressor......carl

THE TOY 88 33' Regal SE Coach #3448

"With the switch in the "on" position I used a test light from the circuit breaker to each of the awaiting red and black wires. Both times the light lit."
Does it read anything in the "off" pos?
Remove the breaker from the box (don't hold it, dummy, place it on a piece of wood or plastic or cardboard!) and run the same test; if test lights it is NOT grounded to the Midwest box.
I don't know what kind of test light you used but maybe the mass of the breaker is allowing current through the light? I never use a test light except to determine the Absence of ANY power. Before hooking up your RV use a voltage tester that tells you the voltage from Red to neutral (110-130); Black to neutral(110-130); and Red to Black (220-240). Check voltage from wire(s) to breaker terminal(s); if you get >10 volts from wire through tester to breaker we have a problem.
Also, unhook the neutral and test red, then black, to the neutral wire (120) then the same to the ground wire.
You don't have any other wire feeds or breakers/receptacles (20/30 amp) in the box?
Does the #4 feeder originate in a double pole 50amp Breaker and neutral buss?

Please get back with results of your dilemma.

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"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood



[This message has been edited by Gunner (edited March 06, 2005).]

Carl, I think the stakes are very high here.

Perhaps you should hire an electrician for the final hook up. You have done all the hard work, so it shouldn't cost too much, and would be a good investment.

"so it shouldn't cost too much, and would be a good investment."
Billh: Respectfully, I disagree. If Carl checks out the problem and finds it is just the test light and the voltage is right, what is the use of $200 (Tennessee dollars, which are usually more dear than CA money) to have an electrician confirm what he's done?
OTOH, I agree with bill h: if it isn't the test light back off and follow his suggestion.

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"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood

Carl: I'm a electrican if I don't get you square away on the Phone I need to go somewhere anyway: I will come down and do it for you!

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Jay&Shelby 95 Barth Regency 34ft. 8.3 Cummins 300 hp.
Spartan K2 MM.

All is well in the hills of Tennessee. Everything was done correctly except using a faulty tester. A friend/neighbor who is a former electric utility employee rechecked my project with several elaberate meters and it looks A-OK. Thanks for all of your help...
....carl

THE TOY 88 33' Regal SE Coach #3448

quote:

Originally posted by carlflack:
A friend/neighbor who is a former electric utility employee rechecked my project with several elaberate meters and it looks A-OK. ....carl

Glad to hear you got an expert to check it out. I have heard some real horror stories.

Those neon-bulb testers will get to you every time!