Go to... | Start A New Topic | Search | Notify | Tools | Reply To This Topic |
I'm in the middle of replacing my fresh water pump. I'm replacing a belt-driven ITT Jabsco with a Shurflo. A couple questions: First, the wiring. I've got a hot wire from the switch. This was connected to one tab of what I believe is the pressure switch. The other tab had one of the wires from the pump motor(neither of the two wires from the pump motor are marked) attached to it. Now, spliced in with this is a purple wire. The other wire coming from the pump is spiced in with a green wire. Am I correct in assuming that the green is ground and the purple is a return to the PUMP light on the monitor. The PUMP light only comes on when the switch is on and the pump is actually running. If this is true, can I splice the purple wire in with the lead coming off of the back side of the pressure switch on the new Shurflo pump? Or should I just cap it and leave it hang? I guess I could test the voltages on both pressure switches to see if they are compatible. I just don't want anything to start smoking, especially my new pump. Second, the pump was mounted very close to the heater hoses running to the hot water heater and the hot water heater itself. Will it get too hot here? Should I mount it further away from all that heat? I used flexible vinyl tubing to connect the pump to the existing water lines. I don't know what the temperature rating might be on it. Maybe a little aluminum foil around those heater hoses might do the trick. 1986 Regal 25ft. 454 Chevy | |||
|
B&H, I have a SHURflo pump in my TT. There are two wires coming from the 12v junction switch. A white one which I believe is posative (all the other white wires are +)and a blue negative run to the pump. The white on is attached to a black lead directly out of the back of the pump. Coming out of the same area on the pump is a red wire that connects to one side of the regulator on the front of the pump. The blue wire attaches to the front most terminal on the regulator. That's it. The pump says it is thermal protedted to 90 degrees C. That's pretty hot. My pump is mounted about 2 feet away from the heater portion of the hot water tank. I hope this helps. If you need a picture I will be glad to take one and have Bill post it. Doug W4JDZ | ||||
|
First Month Member 11/13 |
To be on the safe side, verify and clearly mark EVERY wire yourself. Barth did not observe color coding very well, and you have no idea who else later did what. As an example, both of my battery positive cables were black. There may have been an attempt to paint them red 26 years ago. White wires on mine are neutral, ground or hot. Aftermarket accessories usually have black as hot and white as negative. And so forth. Whenever I am into wires, I put red shrink tubing on all the hot leads and then use a marker to put a + sign on them. They seem to have followed the NEC pretty well on the 120 volt wiring. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
|
Yep, I was right. Red was hot, purple was to the light, and green was ground. I just spliced the purple one into the + wire on the motor. It works like a dream so far. Should I put a strainer on the inlet? It didn't have one before. 1986 Regal 25ft. 454 Chevy | ||||
|
8/10 |
What ShurFlo Pump did you purchase??? It is commonly recommended to install a strainer on the inlet side. Typically, this is a common product available to the model number. ~Mac~ 1990 31 Foot Regency Spartan Chassis Cummins 6CTA8.3 Alison MT643, 4-speed 8905-0123-31RDS-A2 | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |