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We are on the road in Texas in over 100 degree heat. Our bedroom AC is leaking water on to the bed. I know this is probably condensation... any ideas on how to get it stopped? Really need it because it is so hot. Fred & Cindy Cook 1990 32' Regency, Cummins 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
Did you check to see if the condensate pipe is stopped up? You should see a steady stream of water coming from the pan of the a/c
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2/16 Captain Doom |
The condensate drains directly onto the roof. On most A/Cs, the shroud is secured with 4 screws, then just lifts off. While you have it exposed, clean the condenser fins. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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I took off the cover and the drains were clear. I wiped off a little dirt off the condenser. Is there a good way to clean the condenser? Appears it can be damaged very easily. Fred & Cindy Cook 1990 32' Regency, Cummins 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | ||||
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06/08 |
I bet its the seal between the A/C unit and the roof. Remove the inside cover and tighten the four screws that hold it to the roof. | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
The fins can be cleaned by spraying diluted Simple Green or Purple Power, then rinsing with a gentle spray from a garden hose nozzle. Neil's suspicions are on target - since the condensate drains onto the roof, if the coach is level, it'll leak through the A/C gasket. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
For now, tightening the 4 mounting nuts might help. If it's a Coleman you'll want a deep socket [3/8?] On mine this lasted a while but the solution wound up being a new gasket, about $24 I believe. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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3/11 |
Look closely around the roof for rivets. Many will be under the caulk seams and, on ours, when I pulled up caulk I found rivets with the mandrel missing and a hole that extended through the roof. Barth used aluminum rivets with steel mandrels and they rust away from electrolysis leaving a perfect hole. Some will have the rivet heads loose or missing or attached to the caulk. No matter the ac seal, if there are deteriorated rivets in the path where condensate pools or drains you will have water in the coach. Check any rivets or screws that hold cable clamps, antenna wires or roof attachments, like furnace or fridge vent covers and your vents etc. Use Dicor sealant when repairs are done and you should be OK. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
I have replaced several rivets with ones that have aluminum mandrels.
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As recommended I took the inside cover to tighten down the anchor bolts. It does appear the leak is coming through the seal from the roof. The dometic I have only has three bolts... one in back by the fan and two forward. Tightening them down has made the leak worse. Is there any way to reseal from the inside without having to remove the entire unit? BTW... We just completed our 800 mile trip to San Antonio. Only problem is the AC. Sure hope it is an easy fix. Fred & Cindy Cook 1990 32' Regency, Cummins. 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | ||||
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3/11 |
When you replace rivets on a Barth you should use aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels in a closed end rivet. Those will remain waterproof while the normal,ones will always leak. Check Hanson Rivet Company. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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1/16 |
Fred, I'm thinking that you are going to have to replace that gasket seal. They are readily available at most RV places and nothing to it once you disconnect power leads, remove those three bolts you tightened, and get an assistant up on the roof with you to help lift off and set to one side the a/c unit. The gasket has a peel-n-stick surface, so you need to be careful setting the unit back in place, I had one more helper inside the coach to call out alignment directions when I did mine. Kirk 1989 22' Regal 454 | |||
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Thanks for all input. After tightening down the ahchor bolts some more, the leak has stopped. I hope the seal will last a bit longer and I will not have to replace anytime soon. Fred & Cindy Cook 1990 32' Regency, Cummins 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | ||||
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