Hello,
I want to put a new rubber brake hose at the rear axel, and have the system bleed.
My local tire and brake shop says they cannot do the work because they do not have a special tool to bleed the brakes with. The springs are so close to the bleed screw they say it requires a special tool. Is anyone familiar with this situation?

Thank you Kevin,
You are most likely right.I have not been realistic about the condition of my Barth, and although it is met with smiles and
remarks about how cool it is by people on the street, the repair shops do not share that feeling. I found a shop who will try to replace the hose and bleed the system for $300. He thought the hose might need to be made up, but was checking on availability.
I made an appointment for Monday, and as I was going to leave, the starter motor sounded as though it was not engaging properly. I crawled under to find that the aluminum housing part of the starter was broken. And it was one of the parts that was new, or rebuilt.This is a part that I could replace myself, but the simplest thing to do was have them do this as well. Another $300, and that is just an estimate. But, hey , when I decided to buy an older Barth I set aside enough to make it work. So , onward into the abyss. I had been pre soaking the relevant parts with WD40. Thanks for the tip.

Iam

Well Kevin I am sorry you misunderstood my post in reply to yours. I have appreciated your input. What I had intended to convey is that before receiving your advice, not to use WD40, that is exactly what I had tried, not after receiving you advice. I am the ameteur here, I know it, and I appreciate the input by those members who have more experience.I used the words"had been" to indicate past tense,
or, before receiving you advise.I will be on the lookout for the brand you mentioned. Thanks again.

Iam

I would replace the front hoses first. They get much, much more heat and flex more, so deteriorate much faster.

A front hose failure can be more of a problem when driving, as it can try to steer the MH.

this was a general list of things to check on a "new" motorhome, with some comments.

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...923941187#7923941187

Further down is a list of belts, hoses

Hello,
Mine is a very uneven piece of work. I certainly agree with stopping being the first priority. The owner before me replaced the front brake hoses, the carb, upper and lower radiator hoses, heater hoses,starter motor, front springs,ball joints, tie rods checked for wear and lubed.A rebuilt hydro-booster came with the vehicle, which I had installed. Yet, the bypass line for the fuel pump had been blocked off leading to carb problems. My own situation is also uneven. I bought the vehicle from an emotional, rather than logical point of view.I just wanted it,and was going to make it work some way.I have no place to store or work on it. It is licenced registered and insured, and a daily driver to some extent.What I am hoping to convey is, if my approach to this whole process seems a bit strange,it is because my approach to life is a bit strange.What I believe I have in common with the forum members is a desire to fix up and use my Barth.Safely,possibly a bit strangely.Thank you all for your sugestions.

Iam

Oh and I forgot, the master cylinder is also rebuilt, I had the pinion seal replaced they pulled the rear wheels to check the axel seals, they were good, shoes good,emergency cables, and mechanism good,and adjusted. The person I bought it from said that the owner before him said that the engine had been rebuilt. and tho I have not checked compression, it sure sounds and feels strong.It is an odd mix .

Iam

New rear wheel cylinders are under $10.00 ea. at NAPA. You might find it better to replace lines cylinders and hose at the same time. You can get new brake line that bends almost as easy as copper tubing.An inverted flare tool can be borrowed from Auto Zone. I don't remove the old line, just pinch the ends so fluid doesn't leak out.

On a new-to-you vehicle, at a minimum, the brake cylinders should be looked at. Rust pits, gunk, etc.

At a Hamilton a pop, new cylinders are probably a good idea.

I once had fits from repeated soft brakes. Bled and always found air. Bled with pedal pressure, bled with pressure from top down, pressure bled from bottom up, bled with vacuum downward, almost hired a witch doctor.

Turned out one wheel cylinder was sludged up and allowed air to get in on the return stroke. The lip of the cup seal skated over the crud, and the low pressure caused by the return stroke of the master cylinder sucked a little air through the skating gap. Pressure and pedal pressure and pressure bleeding sealed the cup. Suction bleeding did not involve cup movement, so the cup stayed sealed on the clean part of the cylinder.

Cleaned it and put it back together. No mo trouble.

I believe that if the previous owner had replaced brake fluid once in a while, the sludge would not have occurred.

To get clearance, jack the frame to relieve the spring compression.