I'm about ready to tackle the installation of the satellite dome on StaRV II. Everything is relatively simple except running the cables from the dome drop about 6' to the receiver.

Does anyone know if the Barth frames have holes in them for lightening or cable runs? I'm trying to avoid removing three overhead cabinets and a section of headliner by tickling a messenger through those holes if they exist...

Yes they do but there may be insulation in the way. I am trying to do the same thing but to take off the AM antenna and replace it with a connector for Ham radio antenna, inside the front overhead cabinets is a ceiling panel that will come down a bit and let me in but it is not fun and I haven't made it past the first stringer.


Won't be working on this for awhile again so sorry no help.

This is what they did on our Newell. They ran the cables in PVC up to the front and droped down into the cabinets up front. The sat antenna was over the rear bedroom.

Thanks - the only roof space I have is at the front. I can reverse the done to put the connectors and drop in the front, but I'd rather shield that from the slipstream and weather.

It occurs to me that I may be able to snake something along the runs for the crankup antenna, which will be right alongside the dome.

More as I discover what's up...

Well, I've had a chance to see what' up with limber holes in the framework. On my Breakaway, there are ~1" holes down the centerline of the frames.

Removing the front light fixture, I can run a messenger (1x12ga solid wire used for research) easily from 24" to the rear and 36" to the front of the light fixture, so I should be able to thread the cable drops with minimal cussing.

Now, I have to decide if I want to position the satellite dome with the connectors to the front (shortest run) or to the rear (easiest snag).

I plan on starting the ordeal this Friday 1/25, now I have the fasteners needed and the auto-seek on the antenna has been confirmed good.

BTW, the antenna is an in-motion version (KVH R5), which I don't need, but which was cheaper than even a crank-up, manually-aligned thingie.

I'm gravitating towards placing the drop at the front, even though snatching the cables would be more difficult.

More as I self-inflict additional pain upon myownself.

IMHO, I would recommend locating it in the front for two reasons:

1. In the few RV parks I've been to, trees have been a much bigger factor midship than towards the front of a camping spot. Some of them are a problem no matter where you park but midship seems to be a bigger problem. Last summer, the SOB that ended up next to us could not get reception due to tree location in the previous spot. They moved it next to us and no more problem. It is for this reason that some people opt for a portable dish that can be located anywhere the cable will reach. Faith in your fellow man can be tested with this set-up also. You can't always move the RV and the park owners usually get upset if you attempt to move the tree or obstacle. If you can move the dish around, chances are you can find a clear path to the satellite.

2. This is a smaller problem and might be insiginificant but, the shorter the cable, the better the picture or reception. Use the best cable you can afford or get since you don't want to replace it too soon. From the sounds of it, anytime is too soon!

Believe me, almost everyone here has more experience in RV parks than me so maybe someone else can chime in here and support or deny my claims. By the way, for anyone new here who feels I was referring to the owner when stating "SOB," that actually refers to Something Other than Barth. That is unless you are having major problems with your coach than anything can be a "SOB" although the meaning changes significanty.

Bill, generally, you're correct in suggesting the shortest possible cables, but oddly enough, this doesn't necessarily apply to satellite, since the receiver is amplified. The six-conductor "control" cable supplies 12VDC to the antenna, and pin configs aren't available, so I'll have to stow the excess of the 28' cable somewhere. The RF cable (75 ohm coax) will be shortened, since I have many spare connectors and a crimp tool to make it work.

One of my projects at home is to re-route the RF cables to reduce the 125'+ run to around 75', but in the meanwhile, DirectTV is working just fine.

Hey Rusty, I'm just throwing out what I "think" I know about stereo and proving I don't know anything about dish TV. I know that anytime you shorten the run on something stereo, you'll have better audio or even video. The problem is, sometimes it isn't worth the cost when the gains are negligible or something you can't hear or see anyway. I'll be finding out more about that when I go to set up service to our in motion sat system. I've heard it might not be compatible with the new stuff coming down the pipe, or maybe even now. My main thought is placement of a dish (or dome) and I'm curious if that is worth considering or not.

Bill, you again bring up good points (and date yourself! ). The satellite signal is digital, and the receiver is at the dish, so the signal is amplified before going to the box. The DAC (digital-to-analog converter) is at the box. In fact, the coax cable at my house from the dish to the box is 170' long. I'm going to reroute it when I get a Roundtuit, but only to clean it up cosmetically, not due to any signal issues.

With analog (broadcast until next year), the signal can be degraded by attentuation, but satellite systems are entirely different. And digital broadcast will still present attenuation issues from the antenna to the TV.

BTW, per Ed's mention of insulation in the way, my cable runs through the 1" holes are clear

I posted earlier about completing the installation of the Satellite dome. Running the control and RF cables were, well, interesting.

The drop from the roof went into the cavity behind the front ceiling light; there were no formers in the way, so that was easy.

Forward of the ceiling light were two formers, each with a hole, and I could snake a wire 33" forward, and only needed 31". Piece of cake, I thought. I cut a 1-1/2" hole in the overhead behind where the TV would be, and discovered a wood block was deflecting the wire upwards. So I cut a second hole, overlapping the first and offset from center slightly, and after some poking, got the wire in hand.

Now it was a matter of pulling the control cable with a 3/4" connector through 1" holes. Wrong again! something was obstructing the path (I still don't know what it was). So I taped the connector into a cone shape, and slathered it with Teflon grease, and after some smart jerks (comments on the likeness not solicited ), it passed through.

So, anyway, while I thought the rear passage would be the toughy and I'd have to snag the cables through the hole, that was simple, due to where I had to install the dome. The front, which I thought would be snag-free, wasn't.