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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
Here's a simple question. I have a Dometic 3-way frig in my 85 Barth, made in the same year the Barth was. Below the frig door, a simple 'Off/On' switch and a dial with numbers(essentially a thermostat). Default mode is AC. On panel above entry door, there is also a switch "Refrig DC Off/On. Question is how can I run the frig on propane while hooked up to shore power (AC) There is no manual over ride. Think this is an easy one, don't you? Well, Dometic couldn't answer the question, nor could their local service provider that they referred me to. I've got a feeling that my fellow Barthers are smarter than any of them
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The simple answer........unplug it Steve | ||||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
Not to be a smart alek, but why on earth would you want the fridge to be running on LP when you're plugged in? 79 Barth Classic | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
Danny, no problem. These 'frigerators run better on gas than electric. Plus, if you're plugged into 30 Amps with the roof air running, you might get close to to much load with the frig, too. But the real reason is they run better and cheaper on gas. When I'm not camping, I always have it plugged in to 30 amps in the garage but when I first start the frig up, I want to use gas. Also, there has to be some electricity to power up the board I think. Getting close to the limit on my knowledge now. Jim
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
OK, I might go along with the running better, although I haven't noticed any difference, but cheaper? I admit I don't know, but it seems like a stretch. Perhaps it's the age, mine is a 2003 2-way, but it cools down just fine on 110. It will default to 110 when plugged in but the newer controls allow an override so I could concievably go back to gas even when plugged in. I don't know the draw, [suppose I could look], but I've never had a problem with 30a supply. This is one of those topics that I enjoy because we'll learn some things from those who know more than us before this is over. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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4/08 |
Have you tried just turning it off? We had a Dometic 25 years ago with a manual gas start. If you started the gas it would cool down. In fact if running with gas it just turned the flame down. WOW. Hard sometimes to get the brain cells working. '92 Barth Breakaway - 30' 5.9 Cummins (6B) 300+ HP 2000 Allison Front entrance | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
So far, the only way I've been able to get it to run on gas is to disconnect the shore power(turn to neutral) and turn the gas on and then turn the frig on. Just don't have any 110 that way.
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2/16 Captain Doom |
The reefer has about a 300-600W element, so would draw no more than 5A on shore power. The A/C should draw no more than 15A, and the microwave no more than 10A. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
The 'first generation' Dometic 3-way refrigerators, made up until around 1990, had what they called an 'Automatic Energy System'. It automatically selected AC, DC, and LP, in that order. DC would only work if the coach was running and the batteries were being charged. LP would only work if there was no AC. In all cases, there had to be DC to the circuit board, regardless. If the DC voltage drops below 9.5 volts, the board will light the frig on gas even if there is AC present. The early models, like my RM 303, did not have a manual over ride to run on gas if AC was present. I suppose you could flip the ac circuit breaker for the frig but then nothing else on that circuit would work. I'm going to try that since the converter is not on that circuit, and while hooked up to shore power would still be running the dc circuits. Again, the web site 'rvmobile.com' was very helpful.
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