My grey water valve is leaking. Can they be repaired or should I replace both with new valves? If I replace them, I'm thinking of using ball valve instead. Has anyone done this?

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William B. Goodwin

Hi Bill, are you referring to your grey water sewage valve? If so, I just replaced mine. I stayed with the original style blade type valve purchased for $11.00. Only took 15 minutes to replace...I personally like to stay with the manufacturers original design. Keeps consistency throughout the coach.

I'm in agreement on the standard replacement. I would recommend buying a valve that has available replacement seals. And use stainless or brass bolts. I have had to use a grinding wheel to remove rusted bolts on a valve.

Speaking from experience, even if you could replace the seals I would still recommend replacing the entire valve for $10-$15...you figure by the time the seal needs replacement, you've probably tugged on that valve handle 50 times....in my case, I was just preparing to drain my grey water, pulled on the handle and the entire shaft and handle pulled right out of the housing...

Hilaree, where did you purchase the valves I'm not sure I've never seen valves like that at my local hardware store or Home Depot? When you replaced them, were they glued onto the ABS pipes coming from the tanks? I agree, new valves at that price would be the way to go.

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William B. Goodwin

camping world, or your local R.V. dealer will have these.

Hi William, in my case the valve was not held on by any adhesive. In most cases the valve is held on by four pan screws and four nuts. I picked up my valve from a trailer supply store. But like mentioned above you should be able to find the valve at any RV supply store. My grey water valve was a 2" valve but you may want to measure first or look for a designation on the valve itself. It's a little tricky inserting the new valve without the rubber seals falling off the valve. I coated the two seals with a dab of vaseline to hold them in place. Then I sat on the ground and used my foot (it's really awkward using your hands) to gently push the tank side fitting/pipe away from me while my wife slipped in the new valve and inserted the screws. Once she spun the nuts on I gently eased off the fitting and presto! all done! Two people make it easier...by the way, be sure to completely drain whichever tank you're working on first. I suggest changing both valves while you're down there...

I found both of the valves at my local camper supply store ($12 for the 3" and $10 for the 2"). When I went to replace them, the screws came off easily, but on close inspection, I noticed the flange on the 2" pipe was also cracked. I removed the part and snapped off the cracked piece. I cleaned them well with soap and water then dryed everything and used an ABS cleaner solvent and then used ABS cement to glue it back together. It seems to have worked well, time will tell. It went back together nicely. Thanks hilaree for the advice.

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William B. Goodwin

On these gate valves I keep them lubrication. With both tank empty I use a half gallon of coconut oil in both tanks,let it set for 48 hours,then use the tanks. Hope this help someone.Jay;

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br2409

[This message has been edited by Missliltiny (edited December 04, 2003).]