Most P30 chassis have saggy springs. The front can be aired up to compensate somewhat, but new coils are best. Supersteer are good. The rears also sag. Air Lift bags can compensate, but a new or re-arched leaf is better. Air bags are a little bouncy, so good springs are best by far. My preference is to have the rear springs to spec for the coach with empty tanks, and use the air lift bags to bring the height back up when black, gray, fresh, and gas tanks, as well as hitch load and motorcycle racks are adding weight.

There is a chart from Chevrolet on front and rear suspension height that I will be sending Dave for the Barthmobile archives.

Once the front and rear suspension height is corrected, and only then, it is time to have the front end aligned. It must be done to Motor Home specs, not potato chip truck specs. There are recommendations out there that do not mention how the frame sits. That is, is it level, front end low, or front end high. That must be calculated when the caster is set. If your front end man doesn't know about this, find another one.

.............................................Henderson-Super Steer suggests:
Left Camber .25 deg. +/- .25 deg.

Right camber 0 deg. +/- .25 deg.
Cross camber .25 deg.Left caster 5 deg. +/- 1 deg.

Right caster 6 deg. +/- 1 deg.Cross caster 1 deg.

Toe in .25" +/- .06"
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IPD suggests:

Camber: 0 deg. +/- 1/4 deg.

Caster: 6 deg. +/- 1/2 deg. Not the same side to side to allow for road crown.

Toe in: 5/16"

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Chevrolet Motor Home Chassis Service Guide says:

Caster: depends on ride height dimension A and frame angle.

Camber: .2 deg.

Toe in: 5/16
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The correct suspension heights and alignment (particularly caster) will really make the coach more stable in winds and truck bow waves. Bilstein shocks and steering snubber, IPD or Hellwig anti sway bar, and Steer Safe or Safe T Steer also help. IPD sells harder vinyl rear anti sway bar bushings. They could cause a bit of oversteer in a non-tag coach, so if you try them, do them gradually, not all at once. Super Steer sells a Panhard bar for the rear. George Henderson has told me that the P30s with the 10 leaf springs might not need them, but I will be building my own soon, anyway. This is even more of an issue with a toad, as a toad can induce oversteer, particularly on downhill curves.

Super Steer idler arms are also GREAT at stabilizing and eliminating wander. And have a GOOD front end mechanic adjust your steering box.

Lower ball joints wear out first.

Be sure you have the correct tire pressures. Have each wheel weighed.

Front wheel bearings should be adjusted to 12 ft lbs, backed off to "just loose", tightened by hand grip alone, then backed off to align the cotter pin.

Bridgestones are thought by some to ride harder, but they tighten up the steering and stability, and don't have the sidewall failures of the "M" brand. But tires are personal, so my opinion is only an opinion.

All of this sounds picky or expensive, but a well set up P30 is safer and MUCH less fatiguing to drive. I no longer need a drink or three to relax after a drive. (now I need another excuse) And I can drive longer without stress.

I might suggest here that anyone considering a gas Barth purchase consider a tag axle chassis. They are so much more stable than the single rear axle P30s. I have had both, and the difference is ASTOUNDING.