My switch says shore/off/gen. I turned it off and it beeped when I turned it back on. the water heater came on! When I got the rv it was plugged into ac. The switch was on shore.

Furnace still didn't work. Blower works though.

Getting closer to hitting the road!

The furnace has a time-delay relay; it delays ignition by about 60 seconds to purge the firebox of any explosive mixture. The relay also keeps the blower running after the flame is shut off for the same reason.

The blower has to run fast enough to activate the "sail" switch, which senses that there is enough airflow to safely ignite.

Your issue could be with the propane supply, the relay, the sail switch, ignitor, or control board.

Hi Rusty

Yeah, I had it working once. The blower comes on but even after ten minutes there is still no ignition. Where might I find a "sail switch".It keeps getting stranger although it seems that these systems are relatively simple like on a boat but new to me.

Maybe someone knows of a general manual I might purchase?

Thanks
Rick

Try repeatedly cycling the furnace. Mine is often balky when it hasn't been run in a while.

When the thermostat calls for heat, the control module turns on the fan (to clear the combustion flue and provide air) The sail switch is a little paddle that is moved by the fan, located inside the furnace downstream from the fan, (If the fan doesn't keep air moving, the furnace will overheat, the sail switch will stop the gas flow.)

Assuming the sail switch is OK, the control module activates the ignitor, then turns on the gas flow. (You can usually hear the valve click on, then a whoosh when the flame lights.) There is a flame sensor which then confirms ignition, the ignitor is disabled, and the furnace runs until the thermostat is satisfied.

When the thermostat shuts off, the gas valve is closed, the combustion stops, and the fan runs until the furnace cools down.

If the sail switch is "open", the ignitor and valve will never cycle.

If the ignitor and gas valve cycle, but no ignition is sensed, the ignitor and the gas valve shut off. The fan will continue to blow cold air. Some control modules will reset and try to relight, some won't. Mine won't.

If my furnace hasn't run for a while, or there is air in the line from service, etc. it often will not fire the first time. The ignitor and valve cycle but there is so little gas used the line doesn't purge for several attempts. If I hear the valve click but no lightup, I shut it off, restart, let it cycle. After a few tries, it usually runs.

A good reason to run them regularly. Don't forget to check for wasps nests, and spider webs in the flues.

Nice reply Steve. I can relate to this and wil take the cover back off and do a little investigating. I have tried to recycle it about 5 times over the last couple of days but should probably stay in there and do it rrepeatedly
Thanks
Rick

I usually purge the gas line of any air by lighting the burners on the stove for a minute then the hot water heater. And then the furnace lights the first time. If I don't do this it usually takes a couple of cycles to purge any air out.
Also if my furnace does not light the first time I have to turn the thermostat back off and wait a few minutes (maybe 5) and then try again. If I just try right away it wont even turn on. There is some sort of safety time delay in it.

Thanks Josh
I have run the stove. I'm starting to get the ides of "purging" the system so the furnace can work. I'll try everyone's suggestions today. I'm getting really excited about leaving in January for a couple of months!!

Rick,

Yes, the pic I posted is of the cabin 'DC On' switch and is indeed different from the 'Generator/Off/AC' switch. That switch is located under our sofa near the AC breaker box and I would go get a photo of it for you, but it's cold and wet out right now.

Kirk