Starting to get some water running down the inside of the windshield when it rains and figure it is coming from the marker lights above. Planning on ordering some led bulbs and replacing all of 'em on my Regal. I did replace one that was broken in the rear a few years ago but wanted to be sure I'm ordering the right ones. I'm assuming that the markers up top are all 2 wire right. The lower 2 ambers up front and the lower 2 red I'm guessing would be 3 wire. Hoping someone can affirm my assumptions so I don't need to pull any before having the new ones here.

On our 85 Regal, it wasn't the running lights. It was the windshield. The windshields sit in a steel frame and corrosion is common. I almost took the windows out to rebuild the entire assembly, but chose instead to remove as much of the rust as I could, coat it with a rust preventative and then squirt a lot of butyl around the whole mess. No more leaks and that was 5 year ago.

Jim

All of my running lights are a ground and hot wire.

I had the frame rusting on my Euro to, the PO had gone all around the windshield frame with the biggest glob of urethane I have ever seen and the leak was not fixed. As you suspect, turned out to be the running lights above the windscreen. I have removed most of the urethane still kind ugly and a real pita.

I used silicone sealant on the lights, but if my ship comes in and I change to LED lights I would use urethane. I used silicone so I could easily clean it off, just in case someone wanted to buy me LED's.. lol

I still admire the paint job on your unit, maybe again if my ship comes in I would kinda copy it, can you post a front back and side picture?? I would send you a coupon for a Miller light!!!

I thought the top ones were 2 wires but not so sure with the marker lights down by the bumpers. My rear side ones since I put led bulbs in go out when i touch the brakes so I'm thinking they might be 3 wires and just unhappy with the led bulbs. They all look their age and have a ton of we tried to seal 'em goop around them to figured it would be a good start and at least look good even if I still have a leak. So y'all think I should use urethane over just butyl tape which is what I used on the one rear one that left it nice and clean. For the price of Chinese made ones I think it should be an under $50 change that I won't have to worry about moving the bulb around to get a good connection or squirting miller light on it.

I will try to get some pics. Do need to do some touch up painting of it as the one side is peeling a bit but with the wet weather we have had it may happen soon. I think I saw someone down the street building an ark.

Probably a toss up between urethane and butyl. The pop rivets in side the lens were leaking on mine goop those babies.

quote:

Originally posted by benebob:
My rear side ones since I put led bulbs in go out when i touch the brakes so I'm thinking they might be 3 wires and just unhappy with the led bulbs.

You might check the voltage at the side light with a volt meter. Many trucks,trailers and RVs will reverse voltage during brake applications That is in a 2 wire lamp but the polarity will reverse during brake application. Incandescent bulbs don't care but some LED lamps are polarity sensitive.

If there is 2 wires going to the lamp socket you may find +12VDC on one wire and ground on the other. During braking operation the wire that was previously at ground will now be at +12VDC and the wire that was at +12VDC is now at ground. It may be set up this way to allow the same bulb to be used for a steady brake light and also flashing light for turn signals.

My rear side lights are LED and it does as yours, they go out during brake application.

HTH

There is no way around this issue as the coach may be set up to operate this way

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by benebob:
My rear side ones since I put led bulbs in go out when i touch the brakes so I'm thinking they might be 3 wires and just unhappy with the led bulbs.

You might check the voltage at the side light with a volt meter. Many trucks,trailers and RVs will reverse voltage during brake applications That is in a 2 wire lamp but the polarity will reverse during brake application. Incandescent bulbs don't care but some LED lamps are polarity sensitive.

If there are 2 wires going to the lamp socket you may find +12VDC on one wire and ground on the other. During braking operation the wire that was previously at ground will now be at +12VDC and the wire that was at +12VDC is now at ground. It may be set up this way to allow the same bulb to be used for a steady brake light and also flashing light for turn signals.

There is no way around this issue if the coach may be set up to operate this way.

My rear side lights are LED and it does as yours, they go out during brake application.

HTH

So yours were 2 wire then? Hate pulling before the replacements are ordered. I'll go with that. Yeah if it reverses polarity then the leds won't be happy. Not a big deal for me if they go out either.

According to the many reviews, the following bulb appears not to be polarity sensitive:

https://www.superbrightleds.co...-retrofit/3698/8010/

Might this resolve the rear side marker malfunction.

Thanks Pgh but I'm pretty sure the issue is with the bulls eye itself as I think it is to work as a turn as well so it seems to get mixed up when the brake is pushed as well. Not an issue with me, just wanted to confirm they were 2 or 3 wires. 10 amber and 10 reds arrived today. Look good but being Chinese they don't have a DOT stamp on 'em but if that is a concern by my inspection guy I can always put the covers from my old ones on 'em. Now I need to figure out what size closed end rivets I need.

Yes it would but my side markers did not use 1156 bulbs. The LED assembly I got were polarity sensitive. One must confirm LED is or is not not polarity sensitive..

The connections from the coach to the original side markers were 2 wire and did change polarity during braking.