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    Forums    Tech Talk    removing front tire on my own??
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removing front tire on my own??
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Sorry guys, can't stand by and read this without throwing in my $.02. Using starting fluid is NOT a safe work practice. First of all, how do you control how much pressure is being used to seat the bead? Tire manufactures say no more than 40 psi to seat the bead on an on highway tire. The second thing with using starting fluid is when the tire seats, it traps some of the fluid in the tire, when the tire heats up during normal operation, there is a risk of explosion, up to 2 days after the initial install. A standard 11R22.5 tire inflated to 100 psi contains roughly 40,000 lbs of explosive force, more than enough to remove vital body parts (from the coach and the operator) The system I teach my apprentices when we have to set the bead on a tire with no propper bead seating machine is to wrap a large ratchet strap around the center of the tire, and tighten it up as much as possible. Inflate to the point the bead seats, remove the strap and continue filling. There have been many people killed by not treating tires with the respect they require. Hope this helps.
 
Posts: 12 | Location: Calgary AB | Member Since: 09-30-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have used the ratchet strap with variable success, even on motorcycle tires.

I now use a 20 inch bicycle tube. I inflate it a little, lube it with WD40 or rubber lubricant, and fit it under the bead. Then I inflate it as much as seems necessary to fill the gap between rim and bead, and inflate the tire with the valve core removed. Depending on the tire, the temperature and what you had for breakfast, a ratchet strap might still be necessary. The trick with this method is to remove the tube as the bead seats. I use pliers to keep my fingers out of harm's way. Lubing the tire bead and rim lip helps.

You may have heard of using soap as a rubber lube. Some soaps can attack some aluminum wheels. I would consult both a chemist and a metallurgist before doing it.

Then, there is the brute force method, using high pressure nitrogen or CO2. This can be finessed, but can be dodgy. When I raced my dune buggy, and tire change time was important, I carried a nitrogen bottle. The wheels were fitted with two valve stems. One was for inflation, and the other had a pressure relief valve for the nitrogen trick. I still stood back, just to be extra safe.

All of these methods are safer if you warm the tire and lube the bead and its mating surfaces.

And, all of these are offered as last ditch efforts far from help. It is safer to take it to a tire shop.


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84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Years ago I worked in the tire business and have changed everything from wheelbarrel to earthmover tires, and everything in between. Unless your properly trained and have all the proper tools, including a cage to place the tire/rim while inflating, best leave to to the pros. This is one instance that make-shift procedures just are'nt safe. Oh, and by the way, maybe the guy in the video could do another one show-casing his skills in wheel bearing adjustment procedures.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Moreno Valley, Ca. | Member Since: 04-11-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Malvern:
wheelbarrel ... tires,


Jerry, Speaking of which, where on earth can I buy wheelbarrow tubes? Have drawn lots of blanks locally.


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84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Anyone trying this needs to have the air ready to inflate the tire. Starting fluid burns quicky, the cavity of the tire cools quickly and the bead will come off the wheel almost a quick as it went on. As soon as the tire seats on the bead start to inflate.

It really works very quickly and if most of the fluid is inside of the tire there is very little flame. Just don't over do the starting fluid, a little goes a long way...

Tractor supply has tubes for wheel barrows..they are popular here on the East coast..


Doug Bywaters
Near Skyline Drive Virginia!
 
Posts: 101 | Location: Flint Hill VA | Member Since: 09-29-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bill, I have not a clue where to get those tubes. I worked in the tire business 1968-1973, maybe perhaps the good ole days.
 
Posts: 10 | Location: Moreno Valley, Ca. | Member Since: 04-11-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Bywaters:
Anyone trying this needs to have the air ready to inflate the tire. Starting fluid burns quicky, the cavity of the tire cools quickly and the bead will come off the wheel almost a quick as it went on. As soon as the tire seats on the bead start to inflate.


Leaving the core out of the valve stem takes care of that. But you gotta watch where it is pointed. Eeker

quote:
Just don't over do the starting fluid, a little goes a long way...


I remember a similar caution in an Army class......C3 or C4, I believe.

quote:
Tractor supply has tubes for wheel barrows..they are popular here on the East coast..


Alas, one of the drawbacks of living in El Lay. No Tractor Supply. But, Thank You, you've given me an idea to search for one out in the hinterland.


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84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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    Forums    Tech Talk    removing front tire on my own??

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