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1/12 |
The 7.5kw Onan has decided not to produce electricity. Starts and runs fine but no juice. I had the oil and filter changed before we left for Arizona, and everything was fine before that. Wonder if a switch got pushed or something? There is a control panel on the side of the unit that is impossible to see but can be reached from above thru the interior hatch. We seldom have a use for a generator, and that is likely the biggest problem, but have always tried to excercise it under load every few months. Now we are in Phoenix and were thinking of heading over to Quartzsite for a few days and could actually use it. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Don and Patty 1990 Regency 34' Cummins 6CTA 8.3 240hp Spartan Chassis, 4 speed Allison MT643 | ||
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11/10 |
It's unlikely but possible to forget to turn the main switch to GEN, especially if it's seldom used. In our SE33 it was under the couch. 1987 Newell ~ 40ft Widebody 2x f/o's: 1988 Barth - 33 Ft. SE tag axle & 1976 Barth - 24 Ft. | |||
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11/10 |
Now that I stop and think for a moment there is also a breaker on the generator itself I believe. It can be switched off and then on again to ensure it is engaged. Again, its unlikely that you've missed that, but I've been known to scratch my head a long time before remembering to check such things. 1987 Newell ~ 40ft Widebody 2x f/o's: 1988 Barth - 33 Ft. SE tag axle & 1976 Barth - 24 Ft. | |||
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FKA: noble97monarch 3/12 |
I had a lot of trouble with my Kohler generator in my old Barth resulting in the need to replace the entire stator at great cost. That was a worst case scenario, but it did result in me getting a pretty good knowledge of how these things work (or don't). Here is what I would suggest as a way forward in troubleshooting a generator issue. Essentially you work backwards from the breaker/fuse box to isolate the issue. a) if the gen motor runs then the stator is turning b) if the stator is turning the field should be producing the proper amount of amperage at the stated voltage (some generators put out 120V and some 240V) c) a good place to start testing for proper power is at the input of the fuse/breaker box. In most Barths there would be two legs of 120V coming into the fuse box from the ATS. Test with shore power, inverter and generator isolated from each other. In other words, unplug the shore power and shut off the inverter (all of them) then turn on the generator and test here. d) If the generator is running and you don't have power on both legs of the fuse/breaker panel input, work your way back to the ATS. e) there are several ways for your RV to be powered by high voltage (120V/240V) - shore power (your big black cord), generator, inverter - therefore, there is an automatic transfer switche(s) (ATS) that insure that only one high voltage power source can be powering the high voltage fuse/breaker box at one time. If you don't have proper power coming into and out of the ATS(s) move backwards to the regulator. f)the stator's power is conditioned by a voltage regulator, this is a great place to test the stator's output (test at the leads on the output side of the regulator) then on the input side of the regulator. g) in any area of the RV there can be switches that shut power off to the RV. The above tests should point to where they are, but you will need to ferret them out on a case by case basis. h) many modern generators have a "little black box" of electronics often called a control box to control the generator's functions. Normally they are located after the regulator and may have the ability to shut power output off although most seem to simply shut the generator's motor off if there is an issue. Things like "low coolant" "High temp" "low oil pressure" and "stator output" can be monitored by the control box. The electrical system of an RV is very complex as a whole, but made up of simple components that are quite common and well known. The key is to dig in and get to know how things work then carefully reason your way to the problem area. Remember you're dealing with high voltage that can hurt you, kill you, start a fire, or cost a lot of money if you do something really stupid. I'm hoping that this little tutorial either gives you great confidence to dig in or scares you into taking it to a pro who will do it safely and accurately. In any case, good luck. Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” | |||
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4/08 |
We are heading to QS Sun thru Wed. If you want me to look at it, send an email with your location and I will find you. I've had a fair amount of experience with both diesel and gas gensets. '92 Barth Breakaway - 30' 5.9 Cummins (6B) 300+ HP 2000 Allison Front entrance | |||
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3/12 |
Gary, we are heading back to Yuma on Sunday, keep an eye out for us and wave. | |||
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1/12 |
We've decided to opt out of going to Q this year but want to thank everyone who responded. Soon as I get a chance I will have another go at finding the problem, or get a pro to look at it. Sure are enjoying the sunshine and warm weather here in Phoenix this year. Sub zero temps this morning at home! Thanks Don and Patty 1990 Regency 34' Cummins 6CTA 8.3 240hp Spartan Chassis, 4 speed Allison MT643 | |||
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Not to nit pick Corey but the stator remains stationary (static) the rotor rotates. Doug W4JDZ | ||||
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FKA: noble97monarch 3/12 |
Ya got me! Well, actually it's all a matter of perspective. If you view things from the rotor's perspective, the stator, RV, earth, universe all rotate around it Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” | |||
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