Our coach has some small spots of corrosion that need to be touched-up. I have the Barth color codes and want to get some small quantities of the different colors so I can clean-up, prime and touch-up these spots. Does anyone have suggestions where I can get paint that matches? Any advise as to how to proceed?

Good luck with your project! I'm not sure what the best plan will be. Some of the corrosion is surface corrosion under the paint. This can be cleaned, etched, primed and repainted as done with autos or aircraft. This is no more than the usual prep and paint.

The main problem I have is the perforation of basement doors. It appears that the inside of the panels were made of wood and evidently there is some moisture related galvanic type corrosion causing perforation. This involves panel repair at the least. I've not seen any really permanent fixes short of panel replacement. (Bill NY had a thread on this?) Big job...

Maybe someone has some new insight. So far I've been busy! with the mechanical side of things but I'm nearing the end of that stuff and I will be starting on cosmetic work. I'm already replacing the 11 corroded/broken Chicago locks and replacing rivets all over the place. I'm going to recoat the roof, then start "the paint job." First order will be the front end grill area. I will replace the windshields and gasket. Many rock dings and paint peeling around grill and windshield. Next will be the door repair/prep, then actual painting.

I'm thinking of using the older acrylic enamel paint similar to the OEM. The newer 2-part paints or superior for durability and gloss but they are really expensive, deadly toxic fumes, and limited shelf life, esp the "hardener". I will be painting over most of the old paint (which is still OK) If I stay with the same paint I think I'll have less trouble with adhesion, compatibility and lifting the old paint film. My old spray equip and my experience also vote for the retro paint. It will still last as long as I'll need it, both on the coach and in the can.

I'll post whatever I do when I get there, in the meantime I'm open for advice!

Most of my issues are surface and your suggest "cleaned, etched, primed and repainted" will be the approach I take. Do you know how to interpret the Barth Color Codes and get a good color match?

Hi Rain, I wouldn't rely on your paint codes to much. We all have a fade factor. Look in the Yellow pages in your area under paint and you will find a auto parts store that matches paint. I took one of my furnace doors in, they took a picture and ran it thru there scanner or what ever. Then they played with it and came up with a perfect match. They will also have etches, primers and all. I got some in rattle cans and some in touchup bottles. Hope this helps, Good Luck.

I replaced all the doors after trying to patch and repair. The pictures are not surface issues, they are galvanic corrosion that, when you start to sand, will grow to grapefruit size. You will find the wood (luan) is wet and rotted. The only repair is to remove the doors by drilling out the rivets and then cutting the frame at two corners and then sliding the old doors out. Then measure each and call Whiting Door Company in New York and get new, honeycomb insulated, corrosion resistant aluminum panels. They will cut to your size and ship directly to you and then it is a simple welding, riveting and installation of the door locks followed by painting. This is the only permanent solution, because as soon as you fix one part the next one will pop up.

Only two of the photos are of the basement doors, the other two and other spots of corrosion are on the body. Will I have the same problem with spots on the body???

That's what I was thinking. Once the perforation starts you might as well replace the panel. Thanks Tom for the source. I think doors will be my next summer project. I have at least three to do over.

Surface corrosion on body panels should not be as much trouble, usually not perforated.

Well not really, when I examined the rear bumper area I found the rivets loose around the engine area, and then discovered the steel frame cage had rusted away. This may be more than others but my coach lived in Illinos. I removed the lower aliminum skin with a electric metal shears and the steel was basically gone. The external bubbles were the contact with the steel which had duct tape as an insulator. As the duct tape deteriorated the metals came into contact and the aluminum dissolved. We made new steel 1-1/2 " square tubes and welded them into place then coated them with zinc protectant spray paint and double stick 3m tape (that is used to hold emblems on new cars) and then sprayed the inside of the aluminum with the zinc spray paint and re-riveted using closed end aluminum rivets. If you want to try this the curve of the rear steel square tube is 10" inside radius of the steel tube. It is welded to the existing good frame and then the coating sequence is applied. Using 1/16 aluminum sheet you can use a thin strip behind the joint and use rivets in staggered patterns. Then you paint or polish and you are done. This brings it back to OEM condition with much better corrosion barriers. The zinc spray is used on railroad cars and is available from railroad equipment supply houses. If anyone is interested I will get the name and post it.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
The zinc spray is used on railroad cars and is available from railroad equipment supply houses. If anyone is interested I will get the name and post it.

OK...I am interested!!

...and maybe others in the future!!!

Check here: http://www.chesterton.com/ENU/...+Control&ModelID=752

This stuff is applied to both the aluminum and the stee.l Just to be sure we dipped the rivets in this before inserting them into the skin and steel support. It cleans up easily and can be painted over. They mainly use epoxy coatings in industry but that would be the same if you use epoxy primer should you paint the coach.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll like it!

if you want your proper color take to a auto paint store.They will match your color and evan put into a spray can for touchup. lenny

Can they work from the color code or will they need a sample to match it with?

Ido not know the man who works on coaches said he has done it and worked fine am going to match my color in a few weeks .as soon sa i get relesed from servant duty and judy can drive.
lenny

Thanks Lenny & Judy.