Hubby and I will be attempting to replace front pads on 1975 Barth, p30 chassis about 27'/28' length. Any hints that anyone can offer?

Take it to a shop.

You would need a VERY husky jack and jackstands. The torque on the wheel lugnuts is probably more than you'll be able to deal with (or to produce reinstalling the wheels). The wheels are also VERY heavy.

You should also have the rotors turned and the wheel bearings repacked while it's got the wheels off and the calipers out of the way.

I've done dozens of brake jobs, but I wouldn't touch my Breakaway's.

Rusty,

thanks for your reply, we have already done everything down to taking the caliper off, we do have heavy jack and stands, wheel is off and in the garage. Just not sure about removal of the caliper and the rotor.

I'm not sure how the calipers are secured on your chassis (I'm sure other forum members will know), but typically there are two pins (Ford) or bolts (GM) securing the caliper to the bracket. Removal of these allows the caliper to be swung up away from the rotor - have some wire handy to hang the caliper from to avoid strain on the brake hose. The pads will slide out in the direction of the rotor.

NAPA will have the pads (get the Premium line). Get the kit with new springs and shims. Since you're already suffered muscle pains and strain, remove the wheel and have the rotors turned (you can get by at the shop with "resurfacing" if there was no pulsating or chatter) and repack (after they're turned) the wheel bearings I prefer Mobil Synthetic NGLI #2 for that application...

While you're at NAPA, get the inner (bearing) seals, as those will be destroyed in removing them to get to the inner bearing.

Use nothing but mineral spirits to clean the old grease from the bearings. When they and the races are clean, put the bearing in place, and rotate the inner race by hand. You should be able to feel any irregularities, in which case the bearing gets replaced.

Repacking the bearings by hand is tedious and messy, and if you need help, post here. BTW, none of the cheapo "bearing-packing" thingies one can get for about $10 is worth it - besides, they don't work...

Reinstalling the wheel/disc will vary from chassis to chassis, but the procedure is to torque to a spec (to preload the bearings), then back off slightly.

Installing the new pads requires a special tool (if you believe GM) or the use of a C-clamp to retract the pucks into the calipers. With teflon-based grease (Super Lube Grease), smear a very thin film over the contact areas of the caliper where the pads make contact (this will minimize cocking and squealing). A thin coat of anti-squeal stuff where the puck contacts the pad backing will also minimize squeal, although in my experience, Super Lube Grease works better here, too.

I have found with disc brakes, that it's imperative to bleed the brakes after new pads.

Get a plastic container and a clear plastic hose that fits the bleeder fitting on the caliper. Cut the hose so that it is about 1" from the ground when attached to the bleeder fitting. Fill the container about half full with fresh brake fluid. With the hose attached to the bleeder, put the other end into the brake fluid in the container. Crack the bleeder valve and press quickly on the brake pedal. Release slowly. Repeat this several (at least 3) times, then check the plastic hose for signs of air. Repeat if necessary, then close the bleeder. The advantage to this system is that it can be done by one person, and is foolproof.

Once again a forum member has come through with the help needed by another forum member.

Thanks Rusty.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
but typically there are two pins (Ford) or bolts (GM) securing the caliper to the bracket. Removal of these allows the ...

... mechanic to use a drift punch and hammer to tap the slider thru to the other side. After doing that the caliper can ...

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
...be swung up away from the rotor - have some wire handy to hang the caliper from to avoid strain on the brake hose. The pads will slide out in the direction of the rotor.

When you install everything use a wire brush to clean up all the sliding areas on the mount and caliper.

Everything else looks right on.

Bill N.Y.

Many thanks for the suggestions. We have finished the job and all is well, it actually stops now We have a few more little things to do(change the toilet) add some paper towels holders and finish furnishing the kitchen stuff. We are very happy to be Barth owners.

Danny and Mary Ray

I hope having to change the toilet is unrelated to the brake job...

Not related. Present one does not seal, but that was an astute observation on your part as they could have been related. Actually the brake pads was an uneventful event, unless you count the stain caused by dirty brake fluid on my pants leg

Dribbling brake fluid on the clothes is necessary to be sure the job was done right!

Most toilet companies offer overhaul kits; I did the Thetford in my SOB in about an hour, and the kit was $110. The problem with new toilets is that they may require major mods to accommodate the mount and plumbing, whereas an overhaul kit renews everything subject to wear, and is quick and easy.

quote:

Installing the new pads requires a special tool (if you believe GM) or the use of a C-clamp to retract the pucks into the calipers.

Too late to be of any use here, but I always open the bleed valve before pressing the cylinder back into the calipers. Pushes the old brake fluid in the caliper (and anything gunky in it) OUT rather than backwards through the system.

Mike

I agree - but the bleeding process will flush it back out - at least it will if one is as sloppy as I am...

Re: Non-sealing toilet - My Sea-Land toilet stopped sealing also. A seal kit is available, can't remember the price, but it's cheaper & easier than replacing the whole thing. They had it on the shelf at my local RV parts place.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have a new toilet that was bought for the SOB, but will check on the kit.