OK, I was cleaning my new favorite toy yesterday and found a rivet missing.
Any suggestions on how to replace it.
As you can tell I'm a rookie.
I'm so pleased with my new Barth. It's so solid.


Hank

1997 Regal 25 ft

If you do a search, you will see that this has been discussed a few times before and your question has been answered.

Good place to start.

https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...651049061#6651049061

quote:

If you do a search, you will see that this has been discussed a few times before and your question has been answered.

If I have time I will do a search.

I prefer to ask the question again. Many times I just want to talk with folks through these posts.

Tere

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:

quote:

If you do a search, you will see that this has been discussed a few times before and your question has been answered.

If I have time I will do a search.

I prefer to ask the question again. Many times I just want to talk with folks through these posts.

Tere

Sure, redundancy is good...
For aircraft safety.

There
Thanks for the reply.
I'll look up the topic on the Barth site. It's a great site and I'm getting use to using it.
I look forward to meeting you and Jim.
My wife and I were planning on coming to the Hillsboro GTG but a wedding vows reaffirmation is getting in the way.
Hank

Tere
I searched the Barth site and it looks like you and Jim are the Rivet experts in residence.
The missing rivet is is below the left headlight in the attached photo.
Compared to the cost of the new shocks and front springs it's nothing.
The good news is this Barth should last a life time.
It was a great day when I happened onto it.
Thanks again
Hank

Use some rivets that will last.......cherry max. Go by your local airport and an A&P will educate you on the benefits of the best rivets on the market.

The rivets in our Barth's are subject to both tension and shear forces and should be chosen carefully. Barth did not do that when they chose aluminum, open end, steel mandrel rivets. Go online to Hanson Rivet Co and choose the aluminum, closed end, aluminum mandrel rivet and you will avoid the deterioration of the culprit - the steel mandrel! On our coach virtually very broken rivet failed because either the mandrel rusted away or the backing steel framing rusted away from a combination of moisture and galvanic corrosion. Barth had no access to the modern corrosion reduced alloys in steel and aluminum materials available today and thus we face both the rusting of the steel (the tubing along the belt line and in the lower parts of the compartment doors and framing) and the rusting of the mandrels of the pop rivets that were covered up by roof caulking and allowed to trap water. Consumer stores do not normally carry the closed end type rivets, but Hanson has every kind. You can get a decent pop rivet tool from them as well. I prefer to avoid Harbor Freight stuff but it is your choice.

I thought that most of the rivets were 'bucked', a two man process that leaves a closed end rivet.

This is helpful.
The closer I looked I found that there are 2 rivets missing. Both are at the front base where the fiberglass front wraps around and is riveted to the aluminum siding. The challenge is going to be pulling the fiberglass tight to the aluminum.
Thanks for all the knowledge.
Hank

That's the tension part! Better to squeeze an aluminum washer between the fiberglass and the siding, then install the rivet and finally caulk the seam. Problem will be over!

I agree.
Thanks
Hank

quote:

Originally posted by MichaelR:
Use some rivets that will last.......cherry max.

Yup.

After borrowing and buying a few cheap rivit tools, I finally got a good Arrow with a swivel head from Lowes. Worth every penny. No jams, easy to squeeze, it just works.