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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
Do these look like the areas you are dealing with. Much care was give to these areas when we had to re do some rivets. We have a few spots where a 1/4" rivet was used. Fortunately they were hidden behind the clearance/running lights. The head of the rivet is almost 1/2" vs about 3/8" for standard size used on the Barth.
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I have a few rivets missing too on our Regency. Just currious on procedures. Could someone please tell me if I am on track with what I am suppose to do: 1. Drill out the remainder of the old rivet. (What size are the rivets?) 2. Clean and use a sealant (which sealant?) 3. Is sealant needed when there is no seam? (Rivet is missing along the side attaching to an alunimum stud) 4. Install rivet. (I have never installed a rivet into anything. How does the rivet actually tighen itself from the inside to the outside?) Thanks! Fred & Cindy Cook 1990 32' Regency, Cummins 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | ||||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
As a recent convert to rivit construction, I'll give you what I know. The Arrow swivel head riviter is the best I've used, maybe not the best available, but better than the junk from Harbor Frieght. The hole size is important. If you need to go to a bigger hole, you need to go to a bigger rivit. It must fit snug. When you insert the rivit into the hole, then squeeze the handle of the riviter, the mandrel, [center pin], is drawn up through the rivit. The mandrel has a ball at the bottom that spreads the housing of the rivit against the bottom surface. You just keep squeezing until the mandrel breaks off, usually about 3-4 squeezes if you are using the right rivit. I seal every rivit in the hole and after in the center. More knowledgable folks are welcome to correct me on any of this info, that's how we all learn. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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01/08 |
I think my riviter is the same as Danny's. It takes 3 sizes of rivits and works great. Most of the tiem I used the aluminum 3/16" by what ever length you need depending on the thickness of what your riviting. They work great. ED. | |||
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3/11 |
If you don't need every rivet to look the same you can use the ones with a larger head when joining your fiberglass to the aluminum skin. They spread out the forces so as not to crack the fiberglass. There is no need to clean anything and if you use the closed endnotes you don't need to caulk the center mandrel hole. It will be watertight when tightened. The easy way to check the side drill is to insert a new rivet in the holes in your drill case until you find the one that barely fits. Use that drill (usually 1/8", 3/16", 1/4"). Hanson Rivet Company 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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Tom... Figerglass?? I didn't think there was any fiberglass in a Barth Regency. I thought the aluminum skin rivetted directly to the aluminum rib. Am I wrong here? Fred & Cindy Cook 1990 32' Regency, Cummins 1990 32' Regency, Wide Body Spartan Chassis, 8.3 CTA Cummins 4 Speed Allison Trans South Central Missouri | ||||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
The front corners on our 85 Regal are fiberglass. The section between the corners is aluminum. Also, the frame around the front window is steel. An interesting situation. Look at the pics on Tere's earlier post on this thread. BTW, the standard rivet tool won't accept 1/4" rivets. You have to buy a special tool. We have one. Free for borrowing. You pay the shipping costs. Jim
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
Go to search feature type in rivets, start reading or https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...87061/m/46210276/p/2 So much to learn on you tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bGAiC0_i_k http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6bZ7WuSzLs
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11/13 |
Thanks for all the information. Barth folks know a lot. Hank 1997 Barth Regent | |||
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I just replaced both windshields in my '89 Barth, and I had to replace about 5 or 6 rivets on the front aluminum panels.. Mine has 3/16 " rivets on the front and smaller rivets on the sides. I just drilled out the holes to remove the old rivet with a 3/16 " bit and used 1/2 inch long rivets. The trick is to push the panels together tightly with the rivet tool while squeezing the handle at the same time. The rivet will pull the two panels together as it expands . | ||||
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03/10 |
Jewry, what was the cost of windshield and part number? Thanks Asky 1990 Barth Regency 32RDGB1 Wide Body 3208 Cat 250 HP Gillig Chassis Center aisle | |||
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3/11 |
The front cap of our Regency above the windshield is fiberglass. It forms the eyebrow over the windshild and the front corners. To position panels for riveting you use CLECOS, available from aircraft suppliers. They are sized to match the diameter of the rivet (not the length) and can be purchased online. Search for the 3/16" and 1/4" CLECOS and the tool. You will find aviation supplies near major commercial airports that have FBO's (Fixed Base Operators). Look for airports with flying schools and charter aircraft. If you see multiple hangars you will usually find a supply house nearby. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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1/19 |
Tools such as Clecos are not usually available for sale at a local airport. Google "Aircraft Spruce & Specialty". You will find everything you need at their store. If you befriend an A&P at your local airport he/she might loan you what you need. I would not purchase any aircraft tools from one company in particular that has "freight" in their name as I have found a lot of their tools to be junk. | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
When drilling out a rivet, start with a fairly small drill bit. I would try 1/16" - 1/8" first. Drill into center of rivet. Rivet may spin some, continue drilling remember not to go through much more than 1/2" if you can help it, you don't know what is behind what your are riveting. The back of rivet should break off & outer part should just come out. Now measure the hole-take a drill bit, find size of hole by inserting bit into empty hole, that is the size of the rivet you need. And of course material of rivet & what you are riveting together does matter as stated in earlier posts. BTW we have a bunch of different sizes of all aluminum Hanson rivets mentioned in earlier post. Let us know & we'll send you what you need. Send a close up pic of area where you are missing rivets. Tere
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I paid a mobile glass service $380 for the windshields and installation. Mine are W750 and W751 . Same windshields used in 1988 GMC Cabover. The guy that did it for me was an independent contractor out of Spring Lake NC called Apple Glass Co. He ordered them and got them the next day, but I'm not sure where he got them. | ||||
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