I have a Tag Axle on my 87 32' SE and they are deflated now do to the little air compressor not working. I cannont find a belt to replace the broken one and the motor seems not to be running.
Is there a Fuse some place for it?

Is their a manual fill so I can fill them with my little portable air compressor?

So many questions from me a New owner No 4 of this Barth

Thanks


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Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE

My air bag compressor pooped out on the way South last fall. Visited John & Irene in Skamania. John disconnected the line from the compressor, installed a Schrader valve (regular tire valve) and filled them with his compressor. I bought a $16.00 12v compressor from Harbor Freight (same thing sells for less than $10 at the swap meets) which I plug into the cigarette lighter to keep the bags filled. If I get enough ambition, I'll mount the compressor, wire it into the existing circuit, and run a switch to the dash.

The belted compressor is obsolete. The current ones are beltless, but pricey. When I feel rich enough, I'll buy one. Until then, I'll put up with the occasional inconvenience of having to fill the bags by hand.

Air was leaking back through the worn out OE compressor. With that out of the system, the bags stay up for weeks without attention.

[This message has been edited by olroy (edited April 10, 2005).]

Thanks for the info about doing it that way.
I did buy a small pump at wall mart that works on a cigar lighter but the one in the Barth don't work either but I also bought a 110v 1 gal tank compressor so I will try to put that valve on but do you know a part number?

I do have a fill for the front bags but when I go to fill it sounds like the air is just going out a big hole.

I am going to look into the replacement front bags I found in another post.

I am going thru 15 pages of back posts tonite to catch up.

quote:

Originally posted by olroy:
My air bag compressor pooped out on the way South last fall. Visited John & Irene in Skamania. John disconnected the line from the compressor, installed a Schrader valve (regular tire valve) and filled them with his compressor. I bought a $16.00 12v compressor from Harbor Freight (same thing sells for less than $10 at the swap meets) which I plug into the cigarette lighter to keep the bags filled. If I get enough ambition, I'll mount the compressor, wire it into the existing circuit, and run a switch to the dash.

The belted compressor is obsolete. The current ones are beltless, but pricey. When I feel rich enough, I'll buy one. Until then, I'll put up with the occasional inconvenience of having to fill the bags by hand.

Air was leaking back through the worn out OE compressor. With that out of the system, the bags stay up for weeks without attention.

[This message has been edited by olroy (edited April 10, 2005).]

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Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE

quote:

Originally posted by gordonb:
I cannont find a belt to replace the broken one and the motor seems not to be running.
Is there a Fuse some place for it?

For the belt, here is an old post:



http://barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/...911018061#5911018061


The fuse on mine is an inline near the compressor. The pressure switch could also be in need of cleanup from non-use. The motor could be stuck from non use, too. Does the shaft turn freely?

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
For the belt, here is an old post:



http://barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/...911018061#5911018061




The fuse on mine is an inline near the compressor. The pressure switch could also be in need of cleanup from non-use. The motor could be stuck from non use, too. Does the shaft turn freely?

Today I am going to try and plug in my portable little air compressor I bought at WallMart for 19.00 and see if the Bags are even good.

If I cut the line coming from the faulty air compressor I wonder if I will be defeating some kind of pressure switch?

I can use the 12 V line that is coming from it I think and it should turn off the little portable compressor when not needed.

This is a experiance for me working on the Barth but like I told Mike this morning after he sent me email and told me why he had not fixed the problem I told him I still love my Barth and don't mind doing some fixit work.

Thanks for your reply


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Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE

If you tap into the wire between the pressure switch and the old compressor, the switch will still do its job as long as it can sense line pressure.

In the interest of simplicity and reliability, I no longer use my pressure switch, just a spring loaded switch in the cockpit and watch the gages. I was not happy about the extra load on the ignition switch, either.

last evening I got my portable air compressor out and took the line coming from the bad air pump off and stuck the part that goes on a valve stem and closed it.

Not much to hold onto but it worked. The compressor had a cigar laghter 12V connector on it so I plugged it into my harley socket

Turned it on.

Went inside and nothing but then I pulled the air control thingys out and the gauge started to go up. When it got to 20 lbs I pushed them in and this morning I still show 20 lbs air.

The rear bags are nice and round now so I think they got air. Not sure about the front and don't know if the fill and gauges are for the front.

Got to drive back to town today 37 miles to get Smog Check to complete the registration process.

This will be first trip with rear airbags full.

quote:

Originally posted by gordonb:
Today I am going to try and plug in my portable little air compressor I bought at WallMart for 19.00 and see if the Bags are even good.

If I cut the line coming from the faulty air compressor I wonder if I will be defeating some kind of pressure switch?

I can use the 12 V line that is coming from it I think and it should turn off the little portable compressor when not needed.

This is a experiance for me working on the Barth but like I told Mike this morning after he sent me email and told me why he had not fixed the problem I told him I still love my Barth and don't mind doing some fixit work.

Thanks for your reply

------------------
Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE
454 P-30 Chassis
1998 Harley Electra Glide in Tow

Air pressure in the bags is something I haven't checked in quite awhile.

What is the correct pressure, front and rear, for a loaded (17,000lbs) 28' Regal? Seems that my rear is riding a little rougher than last fall.

don

I don't know what is the correct pressure, I think it all depends on the load

The Chev Book says to at least keep 10 lbs in so the bags don't chafe

I pulled up a fully loaded 16' Toy trailer aith freezer, harley and a bunch of tools including wood lathe, drill press and the ride over the pot holes and ruts on HWY 40/66 was not real good. But my buddy who has a newer Pace A said his ride was the same and he does not have Tag axle or rear air bags

quote:

Originally posted by dogill:
Air pressure in the bags is something I haven't checked in quite awhile.

What is the correct pressure, front and rear, for a loaded (17,000lbs) 28' Regal? Seems that my rear is riding a little rougher than last fall.

don

My front air bags have Shrader valves on the apron behind the front bumper. Some rigs have them on the bag itrself, which necessitates crawling underneath to check or fill.

In addition to the tag axle bags, I have Firestone Ride-Rites on the main rear axle. They too are filled from Shrader valves on the rear apron.

Air pressure required is indeed dependent on load. My book says 40 lbs in the Ride-Rites, and 70 lbs. in front.

When my tag axle air compressor was working, it was set to keep them at 40 lbs. The book says something less (can't remember what). Since the compressor pooped out, I've been keeping them at 30.

Next time I set up for a long trip, I'm going to load her down, and use air pressure to set the ride height. according to the book.

There are a number of earlier posts on this subject. Try a search for air bags, and ride height.

When I put the 20 lbs in my rear bags I was up on the stands.

When I let the rig down this morning and put pressure on the bags I was up at 30 lbs and the trip to town didn't loose any air

The only problem I am leaking little brake fluid. But I filled up the reservoir and when we got 18 miles down to the HWY 95 Stop sign I could not stop fast enough, Pumped the brakes as best I could but guess we were moving too fast.

I am here to tell the story only because no big trucks were bombing down the HWY like normal and we were able to make the turn on 95 but dumped everything out of the locked fridge.

Another test of my new barth

We got back ok and I will have the local mechanic check out the system.

quote:

Originally posted by olroy:
My front air bags have Shrader valves on the apron behind the front bumper. Some rigs have them on the bag itrself, which necessitates crawling underneath to check or fill.

In addition to the tag axle bags, I have Firestone Ride-Rites on the main rear axle. They too are filled from Shrader valves on the rear apron.

Air pressure required is indeed dependent on load. My book says 40 lbs in the Ride-Rites, and 70 lbs. in front.

When my tag axle air compressor was working, it was set to keep them at 40 lbs. The book says something less (can't remember what). Since the compressor pooped out, I've been keeping them at 30.

Next time I set up for a long trip, I'm going to load her down, and use air pressure to set the ride height. according to the book.

There are a number of earlier posts on this subject. Try a search for air bags, and ride height.

------------------
Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE
454 P-30 Chassis
1998 Harley Electra Glide in Tow

That brake problem is scary. These rigs don't stop as well as your car under any conditions. You have to allow for that, but your experience sounds like a problem with the system.

If you're leaking fluid and had to add, you may have air introduced into the system, and they don't stop hardly at all that way. Or, the leak may signal a ruptured line, or if it's in the vicinity of the master cylinder, that unit may need rebuilding.

Your tag axle brakes have their own master cylinder and power brake unit. Bill H has noted in several posts that the tag system is often neglected because most mechanics are unaware of that fact.

Also, you probably have disc brakes on 4 wheels and drums on the tag. In my experience, the pedal with the discs is softer than I'm used to on my other vehicles, but it might just seem that way because the rig takes more pedal pressure to stop.

My pedal drop is within specs, but it goes down further than I'm used to. My mechanic in my local truck shop told me it's just fine. I can bring the pedal up by pumping once while I'm stopping, but with experience I've noted it doesn't make it stop any faster.

I would suggest getting your brakes checked in a shop that does brake work on trucks, and let the man know about the separate tag axle brake system.

You say the Tag axle system is seperate. Where do I find the works for it?

I have disk brakes on the front and rear driving wheels and I believe drums on the tag.

What is the best to bleed the barakes? I think someone mentioned vacuum bleeding system.

I can do it the old way. Have wife pump and I open the valves starting from the brake unit farthest away from master cylinder.

I love my Barth and it will be 100% soon

How do I put a pix of it on my emails?

quote:

Originally posted by olroy:
That brake problem is scary. These rigs don't stop as well as your car under any conditions. You have to allow for that, but your experience sounds like a problem with the system.

If you're leaking fluid and had to add, you may have air introduced into the system, and they don't stop hardly at all that way. Or, the leak may signal a ruptured line, or if it's in the vicinity of the master cylinder, that unit may need rebuilding.

Your tag axle brakes have their own master cylinder and power brake unit. Bill H has noted in several posts that the tag system is often neglected because most mechanics are unaware of that fact.

Also, you probably have disc brakes on 4 wheels and drums on the tag. In my experience, the pedal with the discs is softer than I'm used to on my other vehicles, but it might just seem that way because the rig takes more pedal pressure to stop.

My pedal drop is within specs, but it goes down further than I'm used to. My mechanic in my local truck shop told me it's just fine. I can bring the pedal up by pumping once while I'm stopping, but with experience I've noted it doesn't make it stop any faster.

I would suggest getting your brakes checked in a shop that does brake work on trucks, and let the man know about the separate tag axle brake system.

------------------
Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE
454 P-30 Chassis
1998 Harley Electra Glide in Tow

The works for the tag axle brakes are all undeneath. As I recall, they reside behind the differential in front of the tag. From their location, I would guess the tag axle, brakes & all, comes as a bolt-on, or weld-on assembly.

Four discs and two drums are standard on these tag axle rigs, though I don't know when the 4-disc setup started.

I'm sure you can bleed the discs the old fashioned way, but considering the critical safety factor with brakes, my advice is take it into a professional shop and have the system gone through completely . Expensive - maybe - but cheaper than a funeral, and when you're through it's one less thing to worry about going wrong as you motor on.

Your rig is 18 years old. Odds are that sometime in its life, maintenance has been neglected, or it has sat for long periods without exercise. Disuse and misuse, are a lot harder on these rigs than good constant running. The stuff that molders away from disuse often comes back to bite you on the butt at the worst time - a la your brake problem.

Make the investment now, particularly on the safety items, and the anxiety factor of what's going to break next, is immeasurably reduced.

We are not going anyplace soon now because we have reservations for a whole year here to get everything worked out.
We used to live here back in 2000-2002 and now we are making it Home Base

We have 3 mechanics here and I will check on their qualifications for brake work.

All I have to do is ask around at the local watering hole.

If not here then back to town and the chev dealer or call to find out if they do P-30 work. I would rather not run it back to town.

I used to be a flat rate wrencher way back when. But turned a machinist and then retired a computer spec.

That is not saying I know anything still at age 62 1/2
Smile

quote:

Originally posted by olroy:
The works for the tag axle brakes are all undeneath. As I recall, they reside behind the differential in front of the tag. From their location, I would guess the tag axle, brakes & all, comes as a bolt-on, or weld-on assembly.

Four discs and two drums are standard on these tag axle rigs, though I don't know when the 4-disc setup started.

I'm sure you can bleed the discs the old fashioned way, but considering the critical safety factor with brakes, my advice is take it into a professional shop and have the system gone through completely . Expensive - maybe - but cheaper than a funeral, and when you're through it's one less thing to worry about going wrong as you motor on.

Your rig is 18 years old. Odds are that sometime in its life, maintenance has been neglected, or it has sat for long periods without exercise. Disuse and misuse, are a lot harder on these rigs than good constant running. The stuff that molders away from disuse often comes back to bite you on the butt at the worst time - a la your brake problem.

Make the investment now, particularly on the safety items, and the anxiety factor of what's going to break next, is immeasurably reduced.

------------------
Gordon B
1987 Barth 32' SE
454 P-30 Chassis
1998 Harley Electra Glide in Tow